Sexton

Im pretty new to jeeps, so any help would be appreciated.

I just picked up my first jeep, its a 93 Cherokee with the 4.0 and 5speed transmission. I traded some things for it, and plan to use it as my off-road toy to replace my heavy chevy.

Problem: I drove it home from the purchase location about 30 miles from my home. About 20 miles down the road, the clutch felt really loose and seemed as if it was not working. Eventually the pedal did nothing and I could not switch gears, so I pulled over and checked the fluids in the master cylinder up next to the brake fluid reservoir and noticed it was down a little. So I left it there and drove a different vehicle to get brake fluid. Put the brake fluid in and still nothing.

I started in drive and drove it home fighting to get it in gear without using the clutch. It sucked nonetheless, but I got it home.

My question is, now I can only get it to go in gear with the engine off because the clutch seems to not be engaging. I checked the fluids when I got home and they were low again, meaning there is a leak. I checked for a leak and found that pumping the clutch pedal made brake fluid come out right at the bottom of the pressure plate.

Does this mean I need to replace the slave cylinder, or are the lines needing replaced?

thanks for any response

casualties

If you see any fluid at the slave, I would most likely replace it. If you have fluid inside the cab, at or just above your feet, could be the master. Also, follow the lines from the master down to the clutch and if at any connections or valves or whatever there is fluid, may just be the lines. It is really quite simple, just a matter of following the path from the pedal down to the clutch. Lemme know what you find and I will try to help you further. Best of luck.

Sexton

I checked the lines, and there is a lot of stuff on them right in front of the transmission. But I felt it and it looks to just be grease and oil mix. There are no liquids inside the cab.

I picked up a clutch set, beings that I have papers from the guy who I bought it from I was able to find a reciept at 254k miles he had it in the shop for all new tires and tuneup, and there was a note that mentioned that the clutch would need repairing soon.

So this should take care of the issue I believe. If not, then the lines will probably need replacing too. I will have to see what the lines look like on the inside of the bell housing.

casualties

Yeah, lots of miles. And who knows if the clutch had ever been replaced before? So you'll be doing your clutch then? I suppose the teeth could just be worn out to the point it feels like the slave cylinder. I had a Honda for a brief moment that felt like the clutch was gone but when I replaced the slave the pressure came back for a day or two and would then go away again. As it turns out, while inspecting again, I had not totally tighted the line to the slave, so a small amount of fluid was sneaking out and air was getting in. I suppose all i can say at this point is to be sure everything is tight when you throw it all back together. Good luck.

Sexton

By the way this guy kept up with the maintenance and kept ALL the work orders in the owners manual, I would say that the clutch has never been worked on.

Unless he had an off day, and happened to not put that paper in the book. But hes got everything from oil changes, to getting the tires rotated at 93k

If in fact that clutch is the original, its amazing to me that it held up as long as it did.

casualties

I would agree on that, although if it has not been beat on, it's not out of the realm off possibility. The clutch in that old honda of mine had never been changed and it rolled over 200k right before I parked her for good. So it is entirely possible. But it is really nice that the previous owner kept such good records. Cant hardly find someone who does such a thing anymore.

Sexton

well going to get the transmission jack from my shop today and hopefully ill be able to atleast pull the transmission out tonight. Ive been working on getting all the bolts out and everything disconnected, unfortunately i drove the jeep to my house and not to my shop otherwise this job would be alot easier.

I'll let you know how it goes as I get the old clutch out, Im sure when I pull the transmission out, the bell housing will be full of flakes and other garbage.

davida

The slave cylinder is straight forward, remember don't cut the strap that holds the rod in (in the new unit). I got a new cast unit instead of plastic. Unless your line is damaged it should work fine. Also if you replace the clutch be aware that if you get the flywheel turned it will change the position of ingagement of the clutch pedal. Next time I have it apart I'm going to put a new Flywheel in. There is no adjustment for where the pedal releases the clutch. I made some shims to put between the slave cylinder and the bell housing.

Sexton

thanks for the info, when I got my new slave unit though one of the straps had already come loose. it didnt look as if it had moved any, but it the strap wasnt snapped in

its not like the unit was stetched out and compressed or anything, so I just snapped it back into its little clip position. will that create a huge problem?

davida

Not as long as the little cap that connects to the straps is still covering the ball at the end of the rod, it is meant to stay in place, it's supposed to act as a lubricat between the rod end and the arm of the throw out bearing and it holds back the rod so that it installs easier.

casualties

Get your clutch done yet?

tuxfan212

I bet you have already started this but you might be able to get a little more time off of it by pulling the slave cylinder cap off and filling it to the top. With the cap off pump the clutch. You may get just a little more pressure enough to get it to the shop.

Sexton

Well thanks for the help everyone.

I finally got the new clutch in, and started bleeding the system only to find that the new slave cylinder that was sold to me was also shot.

So dropping the transmission one more time had to happen, and I replaced the NEW slave cylinder with a NEW NEW slave cylinder and got it all back together.

This worked, after replacing the hydraulic line, and now the master cylinder its switching gears like new!