Hey all, some clutch questions - I replaced my slave cylinder on my AX15 5 spd today in my '96. It is worse than before it was replaced, ie, it grinds going into reverse, then will grab reverse with the clutch pedal depressed - have to shut it off to get it out of gear. I only get about 3-4 inches of clutch action in all gears, if that - meaning when I let out the clutch the gear will grab almost immediately. Also experiencing rough shifting - doesnt feel synched...

Questions:
1) On the plastic replacement slave cylinder (AutoZone $63) there is a bleeder screw that looks more like a plug - has an allen wrench head. There is a bleed hole below it, on the slave cylinder body. When I loosened the screw to bleed it, nothing came out - I'm thinking its supposed to bleed brake fluid when I loosen the bleed screw right?

2)Noticed that the plastic holding the rod in place did not break after installation - isnt that supposed to ?

3)Should I look at my clutch master cylinder and rebuild/replace?

4)Wondering if I should pick up a clutch "kit", pull the trans and do the clutch etc as well?

 

Mine does this thing where if U hold the clutch in to long U cant get it in or out of gear. What is that ?

 

Gonna try this https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sup...g-5-spd-20714/ today to resolve my AX15 clutch issues. Makes sense that the sealed clutch MC/SC might need some gravity to draw the air out...The traditional manual bleed method doesnt work! Many thanks to fellow forum member Opake for his post

 

The good news is that my clutch is working perfectly - reverse included. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, then used the slave cylinder "pressurizing" method described by Opake at https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/supe...g-5-spd-20714/ Only issue other than the master cylinder being a bear to attach, was that the plastic band holding the slave cylinder broke so had to hold slave cylinder in a compressed state while trying to cinch down the bolts.
Does anyone know if the plastic band on the slave cylinder is necessary?

 

You can bolt that slave cylinder right in with push rod fully extended. Just tighten the two bolts as equal as you can, not tightening either side too much more than the other. My 96 does this same thing. It has a Autozone slave cylinder also, with a muscle car like force to depress. Heavy, heavy feeling clutch. Thanks for your experience. Ill try a new master cylinder once my Aisin AX15 is rebuilt and back in place behind a new clutch. Kind of a hard tranny to rebuild. Learn from my mistake, and Dont let your clutch get to worn, or your syncros will get Toasted.

 

Definitely check out your Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder - I replaced both through AutoZone and PepBoys (about $130 new), used the Opake method mentioned (links in thread) to bleed air out of system and solved these issues.

 

X2 on not letting clutch go too long as to destroy the syncros...and thanks for the info on the pushrod!

 

How do you know when clutch is too worn or if synchros burnt up? Any tell signs?

 

i hate chrysler for not using a bleeder valve on our clutches lol

If the syncos are worn the trans will grind going into gear sometimes

 

subscribed. im eager to know this aswell.. my second and third gear have a pop to it.. no grinding and clutch seems to work fine but the pop/jerk get annoying at times.

 

pop/jerk like how?

a worn clutch will be most noticeable when starting in 1st and reverse. I have to double clutch 2nd and 3rd to get it to shift smoothly cause my syncos are toast

 

Most noticeable like how? Start-up in 1st and reverse results in the jeep taking off with clutch pedal to the floor. Is that bad?! lol
Double clutching and jamming clutch for 2-5 gears

 

it feels as if there was an extra tooth in the gear or something doesnt line up right.. it gives a pop and then slides into gear.. it was only second but now 3rd is starting to do it to. revearse is a ***** to get into.. it doesnt grind but sometimes it just wont go.. then ill push the stick back and forth in neutral a time or 2 and itll go right in..

 

That is your clutch not full disengaging, the source of all your problems. Could be a hydraulic issue or a clutch issue.

 

Hey guys, I'm glad the method I used on my clutch helped you out! An update to my situation, after I changed my slave cyl out, it helped my issue but my clutch pedal was still hard to depress, and the clutch still would grab near the floor. I still had problems getting it into 1st after I backed out of parking spots, and it was generally only slightly better for driving.

I ended up saving up and "shotgunning" the problem- I had the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, flywheel, and rear main seal (and thereby oil pan gasket) replaced all in one go. I also had the motor mounts and trans mount done at the same time while everything was apart. Probably would have attempted this myself, but I only have street parking, no driveway or garage.

After I got the truck back, almost all problems solved. The pedal is much lighter to press down, the clutch grabs about halfway up, and it is very easy to get into 1st/reverse. Note that reverse is always easier to shift into if you put it into 3rd before going to reverse, since the reverse gear is not synced in these transmissions. I believe the syncros are just about gone in 2nd and on their way in 3rd, as shifting into 2nd takes 2-3 "clicks" to fully drop the shift lever into gear, and 3rd always takes 2 "clicks" to get into gear. I describe it as a click because this is how it feels, 1 click as I push the shift lever into the 2nd position, one or two more clicks as it finally meshes up and drops fully into a position where I can let go of the clutch without fear of grinding gears. So far, about 5000 miles on the new clutch without any issues besides some chattering that may or may not be internal to the trans. It drives fine and I'm not made of money, so for now I am not worried about it.

Hope this helps with your ax-15 questions/issues as well!