Clutch Issues!
Well, I think I am coming across a whole new problem, a more serious and expensive one than the rest I have come across so far.
I had it on the ramps today working on taking those corner bumper things off. I noticed when I went to back down the ramps the clutch peddle is very loose. I can push it almost 2/3 of the way down before it starts to do anything and it is VERY hard to shift, like the clutch is not disengaging.
I did check the fluid and it is full.
Any ideas?
I had it on the ramps today working on taking those corner bumper things off. I noticed when I went to back down the ramps the clutch peddle is very loose. I can push it almost 2/3 of the way down before it starts to do anything and it is VERY hard to shift, like the clutch is not disengaging.
I did check the fluid and it is full.
Any ideas?
Great.....Sounds incredibly complicated and time consuming since I have no jack, jack stands, I have basic tools only and I am just now learning how to work on this thing. Also it is my only form of transportation.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
From: Norco CA.
Year: 1991 XJ SPORT 2 DR.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 600 HP
not hard at all to do, just two bolts and the line. i think napa has a metal
one for 50 bucks with instructions. just bleed it a lot at the slave.
one for 50 bucks with instructions. just bleed it a lot at the slave.
Do I have to drop the trans to get to it? Everything and anything involving the major parts of the vehicle are still fairly foreign to me, engine I can do basic maint. I have never done any clutch or trans work at all and I have never dropped a trans or pulled an engine.
Still very new to all of this, This literally is the very first vehicle I have cared enough about to learn how to work on.
Still very new to all of this, This literally is the very first vehicle I have cared enough about to learn how to work on.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
the master cylinder is what holds your brake fluid... on the front of the brake booster... coming out of the firewall on the drivers side... although i not see how it messes with your clutch?
I thought so too, I had always associated master cylinder with brakes. I looked at the manual though and it says master cylinder in relation to clutch too. It has a separate fill bottle too. Says remove the fill bottle and you can get to it. I feel like an idiot though for asking if I have to drop the trans after 2 minutes looking in the manual it says you just get to it from the engine bay.
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yeah, maybe but I don't mind looking like an idiot sometimes. At least the answer to my original question pointed me in the right direction. I would have been lost without these forums.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 11
From: Chico,ca
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I thought so too, I had always associated master cylinder with brakes. I looked at the manual though and it says master cylinder in relation to clutch too. It has a separate fill bottle too. Says remove the fill bottle and you can get to it. I feel like an idiot though for asking if I have to drop the trans after 2 minutes looking in the manual it says you just get to it from the engine bay.
I think by know you know you have 2 master cylinders when you have a manual trany?
i had the same issue with my 85..i replaced the slave cylinder..which is very conventienly located...not...and it works fine now..but you have to drop the cross member to get to it..atleast you did on mine
True, I learn new things every day. Including that it is very fun ripping plastic parts off the jeep with force!
I saw in the manual how to do it. My next problem is getting the part to fix it.
I saw in the manual how to do it. My next problem is getting the part to fix it.
hopefully I can limp it to napa and back and get it fixed. Has anyone done this for an 87. It looks simple enough but I don't want to get into something I cant handle.
Also the haynes book says I need to take apart the clutch pushrod. It seems from that point it just goes into inspecting the clutch cyl parts.
Do I really need to go through all that or just pull the old master cyl out (where the fluid goes in, the part in the engine bay) and replace it and bleed the system?
It says to use a flare nut wrench for the nut holding the hose on. Is it ok to use a regular wrench and be very careful or are they very likely to round off if I don't use it?
Also the haynes book says I need to take apart the clutch pushrod. It seems from that point it just goes into inspecting the clutch cyl parts.
Do I really need to go through all that or just pull the old master cyl out (where the fluid goes in, the part in the engine bay) and replace it and bleed the system?
It says to use a flare nut wrench for the nut holding the hose on. Is it ok to use a regular wrench and be very careful or are they very likely to round off if I don't use it?
Last edited by NewXJaddict; Oct 8, 2009 at 03:05 AM.


