Clunking shake underneath on cold start.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I found a broken exhaust hanger but i put my head right by the exhaust and have the jeep started and there is no sound, so I don't believe it's the exhaust. Even if I grab the pipe and shake it, it is not the same sound. You can only hear it from inside the cab and it's not the sound of a hollow pipe.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
EXACTLY! I was just playing with it and saw it was almost touching the cross member. So I had some one brace the exhaust with their leg and started it and the sound went away completely. I tried to tweak the pipe off the cross member with a bottle jack for now. How did you fix yours? Header wrap?
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
EXACTLY! I was just playing with it and saw it was almost touching the cross member. So I had some one brace the exhaust with their leg and started it and the sound went away completely. I tried to tweak the pipe off the cross member with a bottle jack for now. How did you fix yours? Header wrap?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Could be, but it kinda looks like the exhaust has been bumped on something before, it was basically sitting on the cross member. Or I guess what your saying is the motor tweaks the exhaust due to the bad mounts.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That flat spot on the pipe where it crosses above the crossmember is normal. Check the mounts. I doubt any exhaust pipe would hit on something and come DOWN closer to the crossmember....
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well ill have to wait til it stops raining. I have a new walker down pipe and it does not have that indentation in it. So I'm gonna check my motor and trans mounts. Does Anyone off hand know if they are expensive?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah they are. i was just looking at them on autozone's site. its hard to tell... but is it 17 bucks a piece or is that for both? here's the link.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...195313_0_35305
i take it i would have to support the motor with a jack.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...195313_0_35305
i take it i would have to support the motor with a jack.
Last edited by OEJ; Dec 7, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I was replacing a melting radiator hose today when I noticed the bolt that goes through the driver side motor mount was 3/4 of the way undone. I have no idea how it got this way but I tightened it down what I could and it seems to be sounding better now.
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Northern Illinois
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hello, I have a 93 4.0 cherokee sport 4X4 auto trans. Upon a cold start I get this shaking clunky sound that can be felt underneath, it occurs for 1-2 seconds as the engine is firing up. It doesn't seem to be present when the engine is warmed up but I think it's getting worse. Anybody have experience with this or a good idea of what it could be???? I laid underneath while some one started it and couldn't even hear the sound from the outside, the starter drowns it out, it is a lot more audible from inside the cab. Nothing appeared to be loose either. I'm thinking it might be internal.
I read where some guys secured the pipe to the crossmember and left it that way...don't do it, the system needs to flex. If it doesn't you may end up with a cracked manifold.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Mine was the exhaust pipe hitting the crossmember. I put a thin piece of plywood between the pipe and the crossmember then tapped in a wood shim until it was tight. The next morning when I started it the thumping was gone.
I read where some guys secured the pipe to the crossmember and left it that way...don't do it, the system needs to flex. If it doesn't you may end up with a cracked manifold.
I read where some guys secured the pipe to the crossmember and left it that way...don't do it, the system needs to flex. If it doesn't you may end up with a cracked manifold.


