clogged heater core, air bubble or thermostat?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 11
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From: Indy
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight 6
Did a radiator flush on my "new" jeep last weekend because the coolant was opaque and rust colored. Prior to flushing it, the heat worked and running temp sat a little low, around 150. Since we flushed it, it is reason very low temps (maybe 120 max), and the heat no longer works. We allowed the engine to idle for about 10 min after flushing via the lower coolant hose, which we also replaced. We did not squeeze the hoses during this time. Any idea if the problem is a clogged heater core, open thermostat or air in the system, or do you have an easy way for me to diagnose it?
It is a 96 xj with the 4.0 straight 6, if this helps.
It is a 96 xj with the 4.0 straight 6, if this helps.
Last edited by MackyD; Nov 29, 2013 at 04:44 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
IF it has a thermostat, it's probably stuck wide open (one of those goofy "fail safe" t-stats maybe).
After refilling with coolant, let the motor idle idle with the rad cap off , keeping the rad full while it's idling. Install a new rad cap when coolant/air "burp" out of the rad. Check coolant level next several days motor COLD. Both heater hoses should be very hot to touch.
After refilling with coolant, let the motor idle idle with the rad cap off , keeping the rad full while it's idling. Install a new rad cap when coolant/air "burp" out of the rad. Check coolant level next several days motor COLD. Both heater hoses should be very hot to touch.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 92
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From: By Detroit
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Those fail safe t-stats are a pain for sure.
An old trick for hard to bleed systems is to drill a small hole in the thermostat so the air can burp through. YMMV.
An old trick for hard to bleed systems is to drill a small hole in the thermostat so the air can burp through. YMMV.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 11
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From: Indy
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight 6
I think I'm going to replace the Tstat and radiator cap and backflush the heater core, just to cover all my bases. I have noticed some steam/coolant coming out at my cap.
Last edited by MackyD; Nov 30, 2013 at 11:33 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When you flushed the cooling system before did you flush the heater core separately or all at the same time? If all at the same time that could be you problem why you aren't getting heat like you said you did before. Do like you said and flush the heater core in both directions several time. Also like the others have said your t-stat may be stuck in the open position. Let us know what you find and how it's working after you take care of those things.
If the motor is only reaching 120-150°f then the thermostat is open. One, along with many reasons engines have thermostats is an engine needs to run at a certain degree to operate correctly and efficiently. At 120° the oil is still thick and cold and won't flow through and lubricate properly
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 11
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From: Indy
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight 6
Turns out the previous owner decided that the thermostat was unnecessary. Installed a new T-stat, flushed the heater core and the reservoir hose. I have heat and proper operating temp again!
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,169
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From: York, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Luckily it was under warranty!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 11
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From: Indy
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight 6
I know that they replaced the head gasket within the last year. Maybe they'd taken the T-Stat out around that time? Idk, I'll keep an eye on it. What should I be looking for?
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