Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Cigarette lighter not working, fuse was blown, but still not working...

Old 06-02-2019, 07:36 AM
  #1  
.:.
Member
Thread Starter
 
.:.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 198
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default Cigarette lighter not working, fuse was blown, but still not working...

So my cigarette lighter wasn't working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse. Still not working. The power outlet works. So I went on eBay and got a new lighter socket / lighter. Replaced that. Still not working.

What do you folks think it is? The wiring that goes into the back of the lighter? I'm not sure what I should check next. Looks like I am going to have to buy a multimeter though.
Old 06-02-2019, 10:53 AM
  #2  
CF Veteran
 
lawsoncl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,889
Received 1,065 Likes on 856 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

A multimeter or at least a test light would be very helpful. Did the fuse blow again?
Old 06-02-2019, 11:39 AM
  #3  
CF Veteran
 
fb97xj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 333 Likes on 277 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

The relay may be faulty. It is in the junction block. Look for three black relays. Should be the top one. Swap it with one of the other two (i believe they are the same) and see if it works. Here is a wiring diagram if you need it.

Old 06-02-2019, 03:31 PM
  #4  
CF Veteran
 
BlueRidgeMark's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 951 Likes on 767 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by .:.
Looks like I am going to have to buy a multimeter though.

Multi-meter and a test light. You need both.

Why?

There are situations where a meter will lie to you. If you have corrosion upstream (closer to the battery) from where you are testing, the meter may show good voltage, but once a load is put on it, the voltage drops to zero, or close to it. This is because a meter, by design, does NOT put a load on the circuit. (Okay, it does, but it's very tiny.)


If the fuse is blown, the wires downstream from the fuse are suspect. So, the relay is probably okay, but it's quick and easy to test, so that's a good place to start.
Old 06-02-2019, 04:35 PM
  #5  
.:.
Member
Thread Starter
 
.:.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 198
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by lawsoncl
A multimeter or at least a test light would be very helpful. Did the fuse blow again?
No, the fuse did not blow again.

Originally Posted by fb97xj1
The relay may be faulty. It is in the junction block. Look for three black relays. Should be the top one. Swap it with one of the other two (i believe they are the same) and see if it works. Here is a wiring diagram if you need it.
Yeah, none of those relays changed anything.

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Multi-meter and a test light. You need both.

Why?

There are situations where a meter will lie to you. If you have corrosion upstream (closer to the battery) from where you are testing, the meter may show good voltage, but once a load is put on it, the voltage drops to zero, or close to it. This is because a meter, by design, does NOT put a load on the circuit. (Okay, it does, but it's very tiny.)


If the fuse is blown, the wires downstream from the fuse are suspect. So, the relay is probably okay, but it's quick and easy to test, so that's a good place to start.
Hm... ok. I have a test light, but not a multimeter yet. I'd have to learn how to use a multimeter to be perfectly honest. I understand what a test light is and how it works, but I've only used it once on my starter and the application of the test light there was somewhat straight forward. When you say downstream from the fuse you mean the wires coming out of that junction block? Forgive me for the dumb question, but the electrical stuff is still more like magic to me than the rest of the systems on the vehicle, haha.
Old 06-02-2019, 07:57 PM
  #6  
Old fart with a wrench
 
dave1123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Posts: 14,398
Received 723 Likes on 628 Posts
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Pull the Junction box loose and check the back of it for corrosion or loose connections.
Old 06-02-2019, 09:27 PM
  #7  
CF Veteran
 
BlueRidgeMark's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 951 Likes on 767 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by .:.
Hm... ok. I have a test light, but not a multimeter yet. I'd have to learn how to use a multimeter to be perfectly honest. I understand what a test light is and how it works, but I've only used it once on my starter and the application of the test light there was somewhat straight forward. When you say downstream from the fuse you mean the wires coming out of that junction block? Forgive me for the dumb question, but the electrical stuff is still more like magic to me than the rest of the systems on the vehicle, haha.
Remember, there are no dumb questions! Just dumb people asking questions! Just kidding. No, it's not a dumb question. We all know different things. We all don't know different things. For example, don't ask me about lockers or differentials or the inner workings of a transmission. Air conditioning? Fuggedaboutit. Not my thing.

Electricity is my thing. Not yours? No problem, that's why we're here to help each other.


Okay, when I say "downstream", think of it this way. The electricity starts at the battery, and flow out through various fuses and switches, sometimes relays, and eventually gets to the thing that you want to work. Might be a light bulb, starter motor, window motor, radio, whatever. We call this the "load". Then it has to go back to the battery via the ground system.

The load is downstream of the battery. If this were a headlight we were troubleshooting, we'd say the headlight is downstream of the switch. Make sense?

So, if you have corrosion or some other poor connection between your battery and the load, that's upstream of the load. If it's between a switch and the battery, it's upstream of the switch.



Originally Posted by dave1123
Pull the Junction box loose and check the back of it for corrosion or loose connections.
Good advice.






Okay, now.... uh.... er..... Say, what do we call you, anyway? .:. seems so formal. Can I just call you . ?




Anyway, We know you are not getting juice at the socket. If your test light has a sharp probe on it (most do), punch through the insulation on the hot lead, close to the connector, and see if you have juice there. Naturally, you'll make sure the other end is attached to a good ground point.

If you have juice there, your connector is probably the problem. If not, go upstream. Like Dave said, check that junction box. Identify which lead goes to the cig lighter, and see if you have juice coming out of the junction box.

Basically, you want to go hunting for juice along that circuit. When you find where it is, and where it ain't you know your problem is in between those two points.

To do that, you need a diagram so you know what you are looking for.
Old 06-02-2019, 09:51 PM
  #8  
.:.
Member
Thread Starter
 
.:.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 198
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Remember, there are no dumb questions! Just dumb people asking questions! Just kidding. No, it's not a dumb question. We all know different things. We all don't know different things. For example, don't ask me about lockers or differentials or the inner workings of a transmission. Air conditioning? Fuggedaboutit. Not my thing.

Electricity is my thing. Not yours? No problem, that's why we're here to help each other.


Okay, when I say "downstream", think of it this way. The electricity starts at the battery, and flow out through various fuses and switches, sometimes relays, and eventually gets to the thing that you want to work. Might be a light bulb, starter motor, window motor, radio, whatever. We call this the "load". Then it has to go back to the battery via the ground system.

The load is downstream of the battery. If this were a headlight we were troubleshooting, we'd say the headlight is downstream of the switch. Make sense?

So, if you have corrosion or some other poor connection between your battery and the load, that's upstream of the load. If it's between a switch and the battery, it's upstream of the switch.





Good advice.






Okay, now.... uh.... er..... Say, what do we call you, anyway? .:. seems so formal. Can I just call you . ?




Anyway, We know you are not getting juice at the socket. If your test light has a sharp probe on it (most do), punch through the insulation on the hot lead, close to the connector, and see if you have juice there. Naturally, you'll make sure the other end is attached to a good ground point.

If you have juice there, your connector is probably the problem. If not, go upstream. Like Dave said, check that junction box. Identify which lead goes to the cig lighter, and see if you have juice coming out of the junction box.

Basically, you want to go hunting for juice along that circuit. When you find where it is, and where it ain't you know your problem is in between those two points.

To do that, you need a diagram so you know what you are looking for.
That makes a lot of sense!! Thanks for explaining that to me.

You know what... I have a leak in the passenger side door. When it rains a little bit of water puddles on the floor right there under the junction box. Whenever I get some light tomorrow I am going to check the back of the box. This didn't even dawn on me until Dave mentioned to check the back. After that I will get down to probing the circuit.

Seriously appreciate all the responses. I will provide an update after I look incase anyone runs across a similar problem in the future.

While I'm thinking about it anyone know a trick to popping out those sockets? The way I popped out the lighter socket was squeezing the old one till it bent and cleared those two plastic tabs and pushed it out. Are there any tricks to getting it out without bending the metal slightly? It's one of those things where you need 3 hands.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rklettke
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
6
03-07-2021 12:17 AM
WomanNeedsJeepExpertise
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
42
12-16-2018 02:55 AM
jmattsen
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
12
10-24-2013 07:29 PM
h0ffers
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
8
02-01-2010 10:56 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Cigarette lighter not working, fuse was blown, but still not working...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:17 PM.