I just got my "Chrysler 8.25" rear axle today. A brief history of my project. I have an 89' Pioneer with the Dana 35. I am going to swap it the chryco. A couple of things I noticed today was that the breaks on my stock D35 axle are 10" and the ones on the Chryco are 9". Is there are downgrade in break size when switching? If so can someone point me in the right direction of possibly swapping the breaks from the D35 to the chryco? Also, there is a tag on the new diff., saying to use only LSD lube. The diff. is kinda egg shaped and has 10 bolts holding the cover. 3 on top 3 on bottom 2 on each side. There is a 5C stamped on the right side collar I believe.

Sounds like your new axle has a Limited Slip Differential (LSD), hence the tag requiring "LSD Lude." Your local parts house carries it, it's called Friction modifier. Add the required amount everytime you change the gear oil. Failure to do so will cause your LSD clutches to wear out really quickly. Now's a good time to replace the clutches if they are the original ones.

As far as braking is concerned, don't bother messing around with adapting D35 parts to fit your axle. The difference in braking is marginal at best. A much better option is to pull a set of disc brakes off of a D35 from a ZJ at your favorite junkyard. It's an easy upgrade that will greatly improve your braking.

I didn't figure that the smaller breaks would have adverse effects b/c they are just rear drums. As far changing those clutches out, what kind of task am I looking at if I do it? Big job? Am I gonna have to tear all the guts out of diff. to do it or what?

Clutches are a piece of cake and no the carrier stays in place. Soak new clutch discs in gear oil for an hour or so, pull 1 bolt, remove cross shaft, remove spider gears, remove side gears and clutch disc's. assemble in reverse order. BadaBoom-Badabing.

You wouldn't happen to know where a write up or how to could be located? Is this something they would have in the Chiltons?

You need an FSM! Check your PM in box in a minute or two.

As long as that one little bolt doesn't break it is a piece of cake been their done that.

Yay! I talked to the dude today and he told me that they have my cryco on the truck and they inspected it to make sure they had it right and they do. It'll be here in the morning. He said it came off a 96' XJ. I read somewhere it's a good idea to spray break cleaner on the gears? If so, just let it drip and drain for a bit? Or do I need to scrub at all. Also I know I have asked this before, but can someone explain or point me to a thread how to disconnect the driveshaft from the pumpkin. Also will I need to take the leafs and shocks off the vehicle or can I just take them off the axle and let them be?

Drain it, clean off the mating surface of the axle and diff cover, and then brake clean it. I like to use brake cleaner inside the diff cuz it gets alot of the oil off the parts so it's easier to work with. You shouldn't have to scrub unless there's gunk in there.

To disconnect the axle end of the driveshaft, you need a socket set and socket wrench. Remove the four little bolts and take a screw driver and put it between the u-joint and axle yoke. Pry the u-joint away from the yoke. It sometimes is hard to remove after it's been bolted to it forever. Let it hang there till you are done.

As for the leaf springs and shocks, disconnect them at the axle end, along with everything else that is attached and then lower that turdy5 axle away.......far far away......from that jeep

Make sure it's a chryco you get this time. Look for the flat bottom that sticks out below the diff cover. It gives it away.

Let us know when you get the real 8.25" rear from the J/Y and post up some pics on the real rear end.

Thanks Mud. So from what I gathering. I just need to disconnect everything from the turdy5 and screw all into the crcyo?

That's the plan. I'm not totally sure if it all fits onto the chryco but i don't see why it shouldn't.

You running a lift or anything?

I would toss that 8.25 on a pair of jack stands and drain it and clean it out and refill it before ya toss it on the jeep..You will be able to drain more of the old oil out that way..

agreed, much easier to clean it when it's off the vehicle.

Well gents, she finally arrived. looks to be great shape.

Here is the diff. cover taken off.


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This is the magnet? inside the cover that's clean with no sign of shavings

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Oh yea. All those little specks that look like dirt or bad stuff is just little rain drops. Gotta love the PNW.

This is the guts. Pretty clean. I turned the ring and all the spines are in perfect shape no signs of wear at all. One thing that did concern me is when I turn the right wheel hub the yolk barely turned, but when I turn the yolk both wheels turned just fine. Its an open diff. boo, is that normal for this work this way? When I turned the wheel the the other one spun the opposite way. Anything to worry about?

Here is a close up of the guts

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So there it is. Is this a one man job? Or should I make sure to have some help.