Cherokee won’t start
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Cherokee won’t start
Hi guys! I’ve been on the forums for a while now but I’ve never really needed to ask my own question until now. So, my Cherokee all of the sudden stopped wanting to start. When I turn the key to the crank position, the lights stay on and I hear one click (sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side junction box) and nothing else happens. So far, I’ve cleaned all the grounds, checked all the fuses, tested the starter and starter solenoid (bridged it with a screwdriver and ran a lead from the solenoid to the positive battery cable), jumped the clutch safety interlock (solenoid clicks at any clutch position, whether the interlock is jumped or not) and have checked over for any irregularities. Any help would be great at this point because I’m pretty close to taking this thing to a shop (I know right? A shop???) or the scrap yard. Thanks so much in advance!
P.S the batter is only a couple months old
P.S the batter is only a couple months old
Last edited by Lweller; 01-12-2019 at 08:09 PM.
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
so, did the starter turn when you bridged the terminals?
#3
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Year: 1998
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Yes, everything starter wise works. As an aside, I found a gray wire with a connector on it just floating around my air box. The other end seems to be near the clutch wiring loom and I have no idea where this wire goes. Picture is attached.
Last edited by Lweller; 01-12-2019 at 09:23 PM.
#4
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Year: 1998
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Note: its the gray wire, not the two purple ones.
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Year: 96
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if the starter works when bridged, check at the solenoid for 12V with a test light when key turned to start.
if no 12V, the click would probably be the starter relay, indicating a loss of continuity in wiring between relay and solenoid
if 12V is present likely to be solenoid
if no 12V, the click would probably be the starter relay, indicating a loss of continuity in wiring between relay and solenoid
if 12V is present likely to be solenoid
#6
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Year: 1998
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if the starter works when bridged, check at the solenoid for 12V with a test light when key turned to start.
if no 12V, the click would probably be the starter relay, indicating a loss of continuity in wiring between relay and solenoid
if 12V is present likely to be solenoid
if no 12V, the click would probably be the starter relay, indicating a loss of continuity in wiring between relay and solenoid
if 12V is present likely to be solenoid
Last edited by Lweller; 01-13-2019 at 12:14 AM.
#7
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Is me attaching a lead from the smallest point on the starter solenoid to the positive post on the battery not activating the solenoid? When I do this, I’m effectively just starting the car similar to how the ignition relay starts it, like I said I’m more than sure it’s not the solenoid
if 12V is present at the solenoid when ignition set to start, it must be the solenoid
I went thru this recently, removing and dismantling several
they all worked ok on the test bench.
does the solenoid click and move when 12V is applied ?
even tho mine did, it could not carry enough current to turn the engine
this is assuming earths are good!
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#8
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Year: 1998
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If you are saying that bridging all 3 terminals, the 2 big ones and the solenoid, and it starts?, BUT applying external 12V at the solenoid and it does NOT start, it must be the solenoid or wiring
if 12V is present at the solenoid when ignition set to start, it must be the solenoid
I went thru this recently, removing and dismantling several
they all worked ok on the test bench.
does the solenoid click and move when 12V is applied ?
even tho mine did, it could not carry enough current to turn the engine
if 12V is present at the solenoid when ignition set to start, it must be the solenoid
I went thru this recently, removing and dismantling several
they all worked ok on the test bench.
does the solenoid click and move when 12V is applied ?
even tho mine did, it could not carry enough current to turn the engine
#9
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Year: 96
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Ah, this confusion is my fault. So I can bridge the starter with a screw driver and it turns over. I can also connect only the little post on the solenoid to the positive battery terminal through a jumper cable and it also works. Effectively I’m doing the ignitions job with a jumper cable. I don’t do both of these procedures at the same time.
listen for the relay click, and try to find it, could be a bad wire, terminal, fuse, relay etc
free download copy of FSM makes life so much easier
#10
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Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Having the same issue with my 2000 GC. If I turn the ign. to on and hook a remote start button lead to the ign. side of the solenoid
and the other to the battery pos. side, it starts right up.It only does this every so often. usually after it has sat a while.
and the other to the battery pos. side, it starts right up.It only does this every so often. usually after it has sat a while.
#11
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Year: 1998
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back to looking for 12v at the solenoid terminal when you turn ignition to start, using long wires so you can read DVM ot test light..no 12V and she wont be starting, check yr trusty wiring diagram for wire colors,
listen for the relay click, and try to find it, could be a bad wire, terminal, fuse, relay etc
free download copy of FSM makes life so much easier
listen for the relay click, and try to find it, could be a bad wire, terminal, fuse, relay etc
free download copy of FSM makes life so much easier
#12
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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So I bit the bullet and bought a multimeter today (70% off so I thought why not). I get 12 volts from the hot lead on the starter but when I test the small post on the solenoid while someone holds the key in the crank position, I get less than 1 volt. This has led me to believe that the ignition switch is the trouble maker here. I have decided to order a new one, what’s your opinion on this? I also tested the positive and negative terminals on where the starter relay goes and 12 volts is getting sent through there, so this also leads me to believe that it is my ignition switch.
hold the trigger on the parts cannon just yet
next thing is to download & check the circuit diagram, but normally the ignition switch is BEFORE the relay
therefore, a bad relay or corroded terminal is more likely,
with ignition OFF, you should use yr new DVM to perform a continuity test between relay and solenoid
also is the relay getting a 12V on the correct pin when ignition turned to start?
A DVM is as necessary as screwdrivers to work on most cars these days
#13
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hold the trigger on the parts cannon just yet
next thing is to download & check the circuit diagram, but normally the ignition switch is BEFORE the relay
therefore, a bad relay or corroded terminal is more likely,
with ignition OFF, you should use yr new DVM to perform a continuity test between relay and solenoid
also is the relay getting a 12V on the correct pin when ignition turned to start?
A DVM is as necessary as screwdrivers to work on most cars these days
next thing is to download & check the circuit diagram, but normally the ignition switch is BEFORE the relay
therefore, a bad relay or corroded terminal is more likely,
with ignition OFF, you should use yr new DVM to perform a continuity test between relay and solenoid
also is the relay getting a 12V on the correct pin when ignition turned to start?
A DVM is as necessary as screwdrivers to work on most cars these days
Last edited by Lweller; 01-13-2019 at 10:15 PM.
#14
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Year: 1990
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#15
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These guys are right about what to check, they know far more that me, but I'm wondering about that grey wire. Just curious, can you give a little more specifics? Do you have an anti theft system / remote start installed, factory or aftermarket?