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Cherokee Rear Brakes

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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #16  
Diesel's Avatar
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From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by eggdashure
Ok, my bad...just didn't want the OP to think he wasn't going to have e-brakes.
But he wont if he goes with the generic disc brake conversion lol
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #17  
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From: Slaughter, LA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I'm wondering why I'm seeing the phrase "constant adjustment" in this thread. If you've got your drums set up properly and maintained correctly, they are automatically self adjusting. That's what the starwheel is for. If you have to constantly adjust your drum brakes, the mechanism is in a failed state.

I just did a full maintenance write-up here:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f24/ho...-8-25-a-58947/

$218 to replace every single part of the rear brake system from the proportioning valve to the drums on a 1997 Cherokee. Now I won't have to touch them from another 100k miles. Cheap and effective.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #18  
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From: Puerto Rico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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When you run with big tires and five guys in your car the drum brakes dont works good. In this case you need a brake system more efectively. In my case i swap to zj disk brake system and works good.


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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #19  
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From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
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That e-brake cable looks really taught...does it still work ok?
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #20  
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From: Puerto Rico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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really works good and this is the original ebrake cable.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:08 AM
  #21  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l high output
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I have the parts to do the swap on an 8.25. They came off of a Jeep Liberty. If you want them let me know
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 06:15 AM
  #22  
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From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by rickythedragon
I have the parts to do the swap on an 8.25. They came off of a Jeep Liberty. If you want them let me know
Where are you located? I'm interested.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #23  
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From: NorCal
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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So I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but my experience is limited to aircooled VW's. I have a couple stupid questions...
1) I think converting to rear discs is something I could handle on my own, and I've read several of the write ups. Is there anything I should absolutely NOT do? I mean anything I need to be aware of, like "Don't let ___ happen, or you'll be screwed", or "don't touch ___ or move ___ while ___ is off" etc.
2) (This one's a doozy). I have a 97 sport with the 5 speed and a small (1-1.5" I think) budget lift (looks like little blocks). I keep seeing comments relating to d35 or 8.25. What is this? And (yikes) how do I know which I have?
Like I said, I've read the write ups, I just wanna make sure I don't have it up on jackstands and realize I did something wrong or forgot something. Thanks everyone
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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From: Grove City, Ohio
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Brakes

The d35 is a Dana 35 rearend and the 8.25 is a Chrysler rearend.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #25  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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When comparing the two stock systems available drum stock, ZJ disc conversion. The Discs provide more stopping power than drums. My Opinion, I have XJ and ZJ.
That being said I just ran 110000 km on my last set of drums on the XJ (had one shoe delaminate) worked great up to that time, kept them adusted. Started with all new and good quality parts. Going good on the next set. Just did the ZJ disc set too, all new parts also. Keep your rear drums adjusted, will stop well and give you good pedal. Start with good quality parts. My opinion still the discs work better, however I have no intention of changing the XJ setup. An XJ will provide plenty of other opportunities to spend the money LOL
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