Changing Brakes
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Glendale, Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Cylinder
Hey hive mind,
My front brakes are rubbing and I plan on changing calipers, pads and rotors, and probably changing out the rear at the same time unless I can do that in another pass. Is there anything else I should plan on doing while I am at it?
My front brakes are rubbing and I plan on changing calipers, pads and rotors, and probably changing out the rear at the same time unless I can do that in another pass. Is there anything else I should plan on doing while I am at it?
As far as the front go I would do the hoses since you are doing the calipers. Would seriously consider doing both front brake lines too. Using the copper/nickle alloy ones. Will need a T40 torx to get the hose off. As far as the rears go I would check the long brake line from the Proportioning Valve, mine was really rusted in my '00, and consider the one brake hose in the back. Also when I did my rears I replaced everything. Lines, wheel cylinders, all the hardware, hell even bought new parking brake bars just cause I could. My OCD kicks in. Just replace it all, button it up, and hopefully never go back in there again. Or at least for a real long time.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 319
Likes: 3
From: Key Peninsula, WA
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Since Pelagius is in Arizona his hard lines are probably fine. Still worth giving a close check anyway.
The front flex lines are definitely due for replacement.
If you don't have a set of flare nut wrenches be sure to stop by Sears and grab a set. They will save you much grief.
The front flex lines are definitely due for replacement.
If you don't have a set of flare nut wrenches be sure to stop by Sears and grab a set. They will save you much grief.
You may need to file down your knuckles too, old pads will wear into them and make a groove. If they aren't very deep you can just file them smooth but if they are deep, you should fill them in with a little weld puddle, and file it smooth. Mine were only maybe 2mm deep so I just shaved it down a bit and they run great now. Used to pull very hard one way or another under hard braking.
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CF Veteran




Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
- Yes.
- Yes.
- Yes.
Forget stainless. If they need to be replaced, use the cupro-nickel tubing. Far easier to work with and more corrosion-resistant than stainless.
Yes and yes and yes again! Cheap flare wrenches are pure evil. Don't go cheap here.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
when installing calipers, be sure the bleeder screw is above the brake line or you will never get them bled properly. they are left and right specific.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Glendale, Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Cylinder
Thanks for all the great feed back guys! While i am not mechanical inept, I am still relatively new at the deeper "nuts and bolts" of owning a vehicle, so getting a few pointers is invaluable. So when I plan on working on the front brake system is it imperative i do the rear at the same time or can that be spaced out a bit?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Glendale, Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Cylinder
Almost forgot, my XJ was upgraded to have a D44 rear end. Are the rear brake components different then if it was the stock 8.25?



