Changing Brakes
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Cylinder
Changing Brakes
Hey hive mind,
My front brakes are rubbing and I plan on changing calipers, pads and rotors, and probably changing out the rear at the same time unless I can do that in another pass. Is there anything else I should plan on doing while I am at it?
My front brakes are rubbing and I plan on changing calipers, pads and rotors, and probably changing out the rear at the same time unless I can do that in another pass. Is there anything else I should plan on doing while I am at it?
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
As far as the front go I would do the hoses since you are doing the calipers. Would seriously consider doing both front brake lines too. Using the copper/nickle alloy ones. Will need a T40 torx to get the hose off. As far as the rears go I would check the long brake line from the Proportioning Valve, mine was really rusted in my '00, and consider the one brake hose in the back. Also when I did my rears I replaced everything. Lines, wheel cylinders, all the hardware, hell even bought new parking brake bars just cause I could. My OCD kicks in. Just replace it all, button it up, and hopefully never go back in there again. Or at least for a real long time.
#3
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Since Pelagius is in Arizona his hard lines are probably fine. Still worth giving a close check anyway.
The front flex lines are definitely due for replacement.
If you don't have a set of flare nut wrenches be sure to stop by Sears and grab a set. They will save you much grief.
The front flex lines are definitely due for replacement.
If you don't have a set of flare nut wrenches be sure to stop by Sears and grab a set. They will save you much grief.
#4
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You may need to file down your knuckles too, old pads will wear into them and make a groove. If they aren't very deep you can just file them smooth but if they are deep, you should fill them in with a little weld puddle, and file it smooth. Mine were only maybe 2mm deep so I just shaved it down a bit and they run great now. Used to pull very hard one way or another under hard braking.
#6
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#10
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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- Yes.
- Yes.
- Yes.
Forget stainless. If they need to be replaced, use the cupro-nickel tubing. Far easier to work with and more corrosion-resistant than stainless.
Yes and yes and yes again! Cheap flare wrenches are pure evil. Don't go cheap here.
#11
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when installing calipers, be sure the bleeder screw is above the brake line or you will never get them bled properly. they are left and right specific.
#12
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Cylinder
Thanks for all the great feed back guys! While i am not mechanical inept, I am still relatively new at the deeper "nuts and bolts" of owning a vehicle, so getting a few pointers is invaluable. So when I plan on working on the front brake system is it imperative i do the rear at the same time or can that be spaced out a bit?
#14
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Year: 1998
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Almost forgot, my XJ was upgraded to have a D44 rear end. Are the rear brake components different then if it was the stock 8.25?