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Changing axle ujoints, what else should I replace in the process

Old May 5, 2010 | 11:02 PM
  #1  
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Default Changing axle ujoints, what else should I replace in the process

Well Jeep has bad axle ujoints, which I have known for a while. It sometimes pops in 4wd and looking at my whole front end it looks rusted and a little corroded. Never the less I still have been driving and wheeling it. The time has come to change it before I bust it on the trail. I was doing some searching and read the writeup on here, and I think maybe I could do this. I have basic hand tools, sockets, and a light impact wrench. Jeep also spent first 10 years in Detroit and EVERYTHING is rusted on. First time front bumper came off I had to slip the guy at Big O a 10 to use the airtools. I know its gonna be a huge rusted pain will these tools be enough? I have never taken apart an axle, or brake for that matter, but wanna learn. Will this be to much to handle? What else should I change while I'm there? I've already got extended brakeslines to install since I gotta bleed em anyways might has well put them on. Its a 99 with HP and Im pretty sure 355 if that helps. Gracias
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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change wheel bearins if you have the budget and all the seals such as the shaft seals and the pinion seal
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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When I did mine I put on new rotors/pads as well, but needed it badly. Like mw said, just check all ur seals n whatnot. Wheel bearings, just check em and see if they spin smooth...if so, leave em. At $100 or so a pop its not worth it unless its needed IMO. The rust really wasnt a problem for me. The hardest part was getting the wheel bearing to separate. I slowly worked a chisel around the edges and eventually it popped off. After that the axle shaft slides right out...but try to minimize the end of it rubbing on the axle tube as you pull it out/put it in...man that sounds dirty. Also hit any grease fittings you see while you're under there and throw some grease on the axle shafts as you put them back together. For the ujoints, look at using a balljoint press from autozone. You can rent them for free basically and it makes the job a helluva lot easier than beatin the crap out of the joints with a hammer/socket. Good luck!

This is the writeup I followed: http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?pa...nt-replacement
This is the press: http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?pa...-shaft-rebuild
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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I have change u-joints on the trail with hand tools, a high lift and a hammer, you should have enough to do it, but make sure you have a breaker bar because the 3 bolts to the knuckle can be a PITA. Might wanna do balljoints too
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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It should be a lp not a hp.Lp are 97+ and hp are 96-. 2xs on the seals,balljoints and so on.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by troy fritz
It should be a lp not a hp.Lp are 97+ and hp are 96-. 2xs on the seals,balljoints and so on.
97+ LP was the TJs XJs went LP in 00
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:55 AM
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so its looking like I should be doing the seals, wheelbearings and balljoints as everybody said that. How much do these run and where do you get them at? Would the local Checkers have them?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by troy fritz
It should be a lp not a hp.Lp are 97+ and hp are 96-. 2xs on the seals,balljoints and so on.
wrong bud. 99 xjs are hp 2000-2001 are lp research before you post.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 99rockies
so its looking like I should be doing the seals, wheelbearings and balljoints as everybody said that. How much do these run and where do you get them at? Would the local Checkers have them?
they should yes. honestly man just do your u joints. and leave the other stuff alone for now if you cant afford it. you will need a press if the u joints are all rusty and will not come out with a hammer and socket. a bench vise helps too. ask me how i know.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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I would stick with the joints also if everything else is looking alright, it is a good time to inspect everything and service your brakes.

Things I would have are a vise, hammer, big punch, 1/2 or 13mm 12point socket (1/2 inch drive), on my 99 the 1/2 fit better (for the 3 hub bolts), a chisel to get the hub off, BFH, 36mm socket for the axle shaft nut, 1/2 drive breaker bar, and some misc. hand tools for the clips on the ujoints, and CANNOT forget the PB blast.

Oh yeah a few bandages and patience never hurt for doing these if its the first time either lol.

Again inspect everything and replace stuff if needed, if not, I wouldnt bother, it saves time and $$, and at least you know everything should come off fairly easily after this if something does go bad.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:51 AM
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another thing to think about too...if you're gonna use the press, make sure the open end is facing something u dont care about. My rusted ujoints all broke the caps instead of pushing through and they went shooting into my fence. Left some nice marks in the wood that Im sure wouldnt feel good hitting you or an animal. Just fyi. Other than getting them apart, they're reallly easy.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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the hardest part is getting the nuckle off the three bolts are as tight as hell and the nuckle its self is a pig to free up it is poss with hand tools but make sure you soak it with wd40 or a good penitrating oil overnight
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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this is why i like this forum over the rest i have looked through the ppl and the help is great
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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Wow lotta good adive thanks. Gonna go ahead and just do ujoints and seals, since Ive heard they can develop leaks while changing. Should I be getting spicer or precision ujoints? How would I change the seals?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Since the whole front end is apart... any thought to replacing the inner bearings at the same time?
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