Changind U joints on D30
#1
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Year: 1990/2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Changind U joints on D30
So I need new U joints and dont know if I should go with greasable or non greasable joints. What do you guys suggest?
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
#2
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Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just my experience here...
Grease-able don't wear out as fast (if kept greased) but are not as strong, non grease are stronger but wear out faster...
Now that just might be me and the wheeling I do (LOTS of moisture)...
Grease-able don't wear out as fast (if kept greased) but are not as strong, non grease are stronger but wear out faster...
Now that just might be me and the wheeling I do (LOTS of moisture)...
#4
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Year: 1990/2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have heard that non grease able are stronger but not sure what to go with. The ones Im replacing I assume are the stock ones since Ive never changed them in the six years Ive owned my XJ. I plan on eventually upgrading my diff(when funds permit) but for know I need to keep it running with the least amount of money. Thanks for the input, I appreciated.
#5
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are planning a change soon I would just go with the non grease-able they are stronger, just make sure you get them greased up good before installing. They should last long enough if you plan on the change fairly soon, and are stronger.
#7
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Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
well dont destroy the needle bearings or the caps when you install them, thats pretty much it lol, and non-greasable ones are stronger, the factory ones are non-greasable and i just had to change my rear driveshaft u joints for the first time
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#8
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
The pressure you apply to the caps is critical. The play you leave should be 0 but at the same time the joint must rotate freely. Don't use a hammer unless really necessary and be careful to place the shaft perpendicularly to the press piston (if you use a press) or the caps will seize in the yoke.
#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
or you could use the old vise and BFH trick...
And what about these guys? any opinion on these?
or is everyone stickin' with non-greasers are stronger...
And what about these guys? any opinion on these?
or is everyone stickin' with non-greasers are stronger...
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
thats what I figured, but I'm not worried about. everytime I've seen a yolk toast it was because the u-joint failed.
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