Changind U joints on D30
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 242
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From: Fontana, CA.
Year: 1990/2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I need new U joints and dont know if I should go with greasable or non greasable joints. What do you guys suggest?
Thanks for your input.

Thanks for your input.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 847
Likes: 2
From: Battle Creek, MI
Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just my experience here...
Grease-able don't wear out as fast (if kept greased) but are not as strong, non grease are stronger but wear out faster...
Now that just might be me and the wheeling I do (LOTS of moisture)...
Grease-able don't wear out as fast (if kept greased) but are not as strong, non grease are stronger but wear out faster...
Now that just might be me and the wheeling I do (LOTS of moisture)...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Fontana, CA.
Year: 1990/2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are planning a change soon I would just go with the non grease-able they are stronger, just make sure you get them greased up good before installing. They should last long enough if you plan on the change fairly soon, and are stronger.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Fontana, CA.
Year: 1990/2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, Virginia
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
well dont destroy the needle bearings or the caps when you install them, thats pretty much it lol, and non-greasable ones are stronger, the factory ones are non-greasable and i just had to change my rear driveshaft u joints for the first time
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
The pressure you apply to the caps is critical. The play you leave should be 0 but at the same time the joint must rotate freely. Don't use a hammer unless really necessary and be careful to place the shaft perpendicularly to the press piston (if you use a press) or the caps will seize in the yoke.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,316
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
or you could use the old vise and BFH trick...
And what about these guys? any opinion on these?
or is everyone stickin' with non-greasers are stronger...
And what about these guys? any opinion on these?
or is everyone stickin' with non-greasers are stronger...
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,316
Likes: 1
From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
thats what I figured, but I'm not worried about. everytime I've seen a yolk toast it was because the u-joint failed.
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