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cel on for months!!! I'm lost and broke now!!!!

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Old 11-02-2013, 05:43 PM
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Default cel on for months!!! I'm lost and broke now!!!!

So a couple of months ago I was driving home. And as I was getting on the highway my jeep sputtered and died. I towed it to my shop and started checking things. And what I found was a bad distribtor gear and the cam gear were badly worn flat... so I pulled the cam out of my 2000 cherokee and distribtor. The cam was different on the way it holds in place. On my 97 it floats with the cam button. But on the 2000 its a plate that holds it in place. So we drilled the center of the cam bolt and made it like the original one... work all great put it together fired right up but the cel won't go away... I've alread put a whole new distribitor,cam sensor, cap, and rotor. I'm lost and need help
Old 11-02-2013, 05:49 PM
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Did you scan the code and see what it is? Unhook the battery and see if it comes back?
Old 11-02-2013, 05:57 PM
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...so what's the code thrown by the computer? Or did you just see the CEL and throw random parts at it?
Old 11-02-2013, 07:11 PM
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P1391..
Old 11-02-2013, 07:23 PM
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Done a ground refreshing?
Old 11-02-2013, 07:39 PM
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1391 can also be crank sensor issue ....http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/p...sensor-828759/
Old 11-02-2013, 07:56 PM
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P1391 is common after R&R'ing the distributor. Do a search here for Indexing the Distributor.
Old 11-02-2013, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Done a ground refreshing?
Never heard of it... and I put a crank postion sensor on it like 7 months ago
Old 11-03-2013, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
P1391 is common after R&R'ing the distributor. Do a search here for Indexing the Distributor.
Can't find nothin on it
Old 11-03-2013, 12:39 PM
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Here you go:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html


Instead of doing step #3 I'd pull the #1 sparkplug. Then with one of your fingers sealing the #1 plug hole just do step #4 until you feel the pressure of the #1 cylinder coming up on it's compression stroke(you'll know it). Once it starts just use your socket to get the two marks lined up. Don't let the marks bypass one another. If they do just go another cycle.
Old 11-03-2013, 01:44 PM
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Here's some possible causes for P1391:

DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

As far as checking the distributor indexing:


Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out.
I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly.
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3/16" punch shown installed.

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With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown.

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TEST
Old 11-03-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Here's some possible causes for P1391:

DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

As far as checking the distributor indexing:

Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out.

I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly.


3/16" punch shown installed.



With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown.



TEST
I checked the timeing and its good.. I put a new cap and rotor in today and it runs smoother but when driving and jerks randomly like its loseing power the its fine again..
Old 11-03-2013, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by monstercherokee
I checked the timeing and its good.. I put a new cap and rotor in today and it runs smoother but when driving and jerks randomly like its loseing power the its fine again..
Check all wiring in the engine bay for chafing, especially where the wire loom around where the wires come out of the fuel injector manifold. There's meen lots accounts of Heep owners finding chafing in this area from the end of the fuel rail and the valve cover. You may have to cut cable ties and have a good look under the looms.

Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems.
Old 11-21-2013, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen

Check all wiring in the engine bay for chafing, especially where the wire loom around where the wires come out of the fuel injector manifold. There's meen lots accounts of Heep owners finding chafing in this area from the end of the fuel rail and the valve cover. You may have to cut cable ties and have a good look under the looms.

Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems.
Replace the crank sensor and the jerking went away but the cel did not go away
Old 11-24-2013, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by monstercherokee

Replace the crank sensor and the jerking went away but the cel did not go away
You have to manually shut the light off, it will not go of by itself when you change a cps


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