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cel on for months!!! I'm lost and broke now!!!!
So a couple of months ago I was driving home. And as I was getting on the highway my jeep sputtered and died. I towed it to my shop and started checking things. And what I found was a bad distribtor gear and the cam gear were badly worn flat... so I pulled the cam out of my 2000 cherokee and distribtor. The cam was different on the way it holds in place. On my 97 it floats with the cam button. But on the 2000 its a plate that holds it in place. So we drilled the center of the cam bolt and made it like the original one... work all great put it together fired right up but the cel won't go away... I've alread put a whole new distribitor,cam sensor, cap, and rotor. I'm lost and need help
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Did you scan the code and see what it is? Unhook the battery and see if it comes back?
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...so what's the code thrown by the computer? Or did you just see the CEL and throw random parts at it?
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P1391..
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Done a ground refreshing?
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1391 can also be crank sensor issue ....http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/p...sensor-828759/
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P1391 is common after R&R'ing the distributor. Do a search here for Indexing the Distributor.
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Originally Posted by salad
(Post 2663157)
Done a ground refreshing?
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 2663204)
P1391 is common after R&R'ing the distributor. Do a search here for Indexing the Distributor.
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Here you go:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html Instead of doing step #3 I'd pull the #1 sparkplug. Then with one of your fingers sealing the #1 plug hole just do step #4 until you feel the pressure of the #1 cylinder coming up on it's compression stroke(you'll know it). Once it starts just use your socket to get the two marks lined up. Don't let the marks bypass one another. If they do just go another cycle. |
3 Attachment(s)
Here's some possible causes for P1391:
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT) DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT) IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR As far as checking the distributor indexing: Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out. I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly. 3/16" punch shown installed. With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown. TEST |
Originally Posted by CCKen
(Post 2663826)
Here's some possible causes for P1391:
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT) DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT) IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR As far as checking the distributor indexing: Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out. I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly. 3/16" punch shown installed. With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown. TEST |
Originally Posted by monstercherokee
(Post 2663907)
I checked the timeing and its good.. I put a new cap and rotor in today and it runs smoother but when driving and jerks randomly like its loseing power the its fine again..
Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems. |
Originally Posted by CCKen
(Post 2664075)
Check all wiring in the engine bay for chafing, especially where the wire loom around where the wires come out of the fuel injector manifold. There's meen lots accounts of Heep owners finding chafing in this area from the end of the fuel rail and the valve cover. You may have to cut cable ties and have a good look under the looms. Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems. |
Originally Posted by monstercherokee
(Post 2682279)
Replace the crank sensor and the jerking went away but the cel did not go away |
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