cel on for months!!! I'm lost and broke now!!!!
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: segoville tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
cel on for months!!! I'm lost and broke now!!!!
So a couple of months ago I was driving home. And as I was getting on the highway my jeep sputtered and died. I towed it to my shop and started checking things. And what I found was a bad distribtor gear and the cam gear were badly worn flat... so I pulled the cam out of my 2000 cherokee and distribtor. The cam was different on the way it holds in place. On my 97 it floats with the cam button. But on the 2000 its a plate that holds it in place. So we drilled the center of the cam bolt and made it like the original one... work all great put it together fired right up but the cel won't go away... I've alread put a whole new distribitor,cam sensor, cap, and rotor. I'm lost and need help
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: segoville tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: segoville tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,676
Likes: 301
From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
Here you go:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
Instead of doing step #3 I'd pull the #1 sparkplug. Then with one of your fingers sealing the #1 plug hole just do step #4 until you feel the pressure of the #1 cylinder coming up on it's compression stroke(you'll know it). Once it starts just use your socket to get the two marks lined up. Don't let the marks bypass one another. If they do just go another cycle.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
Instead of doing step #3 I'd pull the #1 sparkplug. Then with one of your fingers sealing the #1 plug hole just do step #4 until you feel the pressure of the #1 cylinder coming up on it's compression stroke(you'll know it). Once it starts just use your socket to get the two marks lined up. Don't let the marks bypass one another. If they do just go another cycle.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's some possible causes for P1391:
3/16" punch shown installed.
TEST
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
As far as checking the distributor indexing:
Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out.
I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly. 3/16" punch shown installed.
With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown.
TEST
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: segoville tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Here's some possible causes for P1391:
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
As far as checking the distributor indexing:
Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out.
I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly.
3/16" punch shown installed.
With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown.
TEST
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
As far as checking the distributor indexing:
Just find #1 TDC Compression as described, line up the index mark on the crankshaft damper with the "0" index mark on the timing chain cover, remove the distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor. Using a 3/16" punch or drill, place it in the 4.0 index hole (shown in pic) and through the distributor base. If it goes through the base, it's in time. If it won't drop through the hole in the base of the distributor, try rotating the rotor shaft untill it does drop in. If there lots of rotational play in the rotor shaft, the distributor gear and/or the cam gear is worn out.
I can't imagine it would even run if it weren't installed properly.
3/16" punch shown installed.
With rotor installed it should align just past the #1 position on the distributor cap. Modified cap shown.
TEST
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: segoville tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Check all wiring in the engine bay for chafing, especially where the wire loom around where the wires come out of the fuel injector manifold. There's meen lots accounts of Heep owners finding chafing in this area from the end of the fuel rail and the valve cover. You may have to cut cable ties and have a good look under the looms.
Wiggling wire harnesses is a basic troubleshooting step when chasing intermittant problems.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0