cant get trans cooler lines out of transmission
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 78
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can't seem to get these things out. Sprayed some pb blaster and squeezed with pliers while pulling on the line like crazy. I know this has to be easier to get loose than im making it. I saw a ford fuel line disconnect tool mentioned on here before but videos of the ford fuel line tool show a metal on metal connection and doesn't have this plastic mess on there.
Can anyone help me out and tell me how to get them out and if a tool makes it easy then what/where that tool is. Pic attached. Hope it shows. Happy holidays everyone!
Can anyone help me out and tell me how to get them out and if a tool makes it easy then what/where that tool is. Pic attached. Hope it shows. Happy holidays everyone!
Last edited by 96ckeecntry; Dec 26, 2010 at 04:20 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 501
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From: Connecticut
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
I believe you have to push the line and plastic piece in towards the connector and then hold the plastic piece in while you wiggle the line out.
Last edited by bobvalli; Dec 26, 2010 at 04:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 78
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I tried pushing in on it but there's no forward movement. Barely any side to side wiggle room. Anyone have any other ideas?
Last time I got one of these connectors out it was in 3 pieces. The pipe sections were still locked together though and had to be pried apart. This deformed the female end of the line preventing a new clip from staying put. These lines are a mess. My biggest jeep headache thus far. Lol.
Last time I got one of these connectors out it was in 3 pieces. The pipe sections were still locked together though and had to be pried apart. This deformed the female end of the line preventing a new clip from staying put. These lines are a mess. My biggest jeep headache thus far. Lol.
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
cut where you have a long straight section with small tubing cutter the when installing splice together with rubber hose for use with oil
CF Veteran
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Mt. Sidney, Va
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
X3 and if you go this route, make sure you specify at the parts store that you need hose for tranny fluid. Don't let them sale you fuel line hose. I done this set up on mine a couple weeks ago and it works great. Simple,easy and no more leaks.I also put two hose clamps on the hose, might be over kill, but it's not leaking.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have new oem lines and new plastic connectors with o rings. Just can't get old lines loose to start install of these parts. Might just have to destroy the old connectors in the process and hope for the best.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok so I fixed these up a while ago but I thought I would come back and post the method I used to get the connectors out.
You have to put the ac/trans line disconnect tool around the pipe and push in on it and on the pipe. It wont move far but it will move. When you do that you can use some needle nose pliers to squeeze the ears of the connector one at a time and wiggle it out. Doing it this way results in the pipe coming loose with the connector still attached to it. I don't know if you can remove just the pipe and leave the connector behind but this was the only way I could get it to work.
Also there are three o rings with these connectors. Use a pick to scrape out any old o rings from the transmission adapter or line end before installing new ones. Any extras up there will cause a leak. They go in a specific order so when installing a new connector slide the plastic part of the connector over the line until it clicks in place over the rib on the line. Then slide the softer of the two green o-rings. Followed by the black thicker o-ring. Last the firm green o-ring goes on there. Then you have to insert the whole assembly perfectly straight on or the o-rings will catch, slide off, and you'll have to pull it back out and put the o-ring back in place and try again. Don't remember how many times I had to do that one but it seemed like a lot.
Honestly, these stupid lines are the most annoying thing i've messed with on this jeep so far. I'd rather change the clutch in my toyota again before swapping in a full set of new lines. Ah well, at least its done and no longer leaks.
hope the info helps someone else.
You have to put the ac/trans line disconnect tool around the pipe and push in on it and on the pipe. It wont move far but it will move. When you do that you can use some needle nose pliers to squeeze the ears of the connector one at a time and wiggle it out. Doing it this way results in the pipe coming loose with the connector still attached to it. I don't know if you can remove just the pipe and leave the connector behind but this was the only way I could get it to work.
Also there are three o rings with these connectors. Use a pick to scrape out any old o rings from the transmission adapter or line end before installing new ones. Any extras up there will cause a leak. They go in a specific order so when installing a new connector slide the plastic part of the connector over the line until it clicks in place over the rib on the line. Then slide the softer of the two green o-rings. Followed by the black thicker o-ring. Last the firm green o-ring goes on there. Then you have to insert the whole assembly perfectly straight on or the o-rings will catch, slide off, and you'll have to pull it back out and put the o-ring back in place and try again. Don't remember how many times I had to do that one but it seemed like a lot.
Honestly, these stupid lines are the most annoying thing i've messed with on this jeep so far. I'd rather change the clutch in my toyota again before swapping in a full set of new lines. Ah well, at least its done and no longer leaks.
hope the info helps someone else.
I was going to buy these same lines...CarQuest was asking more than $150 for the lines. I fought and struggled for a while, then called the local garage, that replaced the lines for $100 with labor.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah they aren't the easiest things to get loose. The lines aren't bad to remove once the connector ends are loose.
I honestly swear my entire rear main seal/flywheel/cluch swap on my celica was 20x easier than that transmission line ordeal. I don't want to screw with them anytime soon.
I honestly swear my entire rear main seal/flywheel/cluch swap on my celica was 20x easier than that transmission line ordeal. I don't want to screw with them anytime soon.
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