No I didnt get to try anything yesterday. I will definitely be doing something this weekend though.

 

Did you make any progress?

 

No I haven't actually. For the two nice days we had I forgot about my leaky door seals (I've kind of just gotten used to it, ya know?). Now it's raining (surprise surprise). Next time it's nice out I'm going to try my best to remember. Sorry for the disappointment.

 

Tried the ratchet strap deal..... did absolutely nothing for my doors sealing. It almost seems like my doors shrank. They are smaller than the sealing surface pretty much all the way around.

 

I wouldnt say this is the best idea, but if you still have your old door seals you could just put them on the other side to match up with the new ones. The double seal might get you by until you figure it out at least.

 

What do you mean put them on the other side?

 

Oops.. may have just had a late night stupid moment I was thinking that the XJ doors sealed like my yotas, with only one seal, instead of one on the door and one on the body. Now that i think about, im still not sure if the xj does or not.. Sorry been a long day lol

 

The Xj only has one seal on the body.

 

Ok good, my idea was to add another seal on the door then, where the door touches the seal. So the two seals just meet when you close the door.

 

If you do this, just make sure to only add the seal to the top of the door. Otherwise the bottom won't close properly.

I was having the same issue with my doors this past spring and doing the 97+ seals makes a huge difference. Granted, mine were simply squished down and needed replacing, but they are much thicker than the 84-96 seals. If you can find one at a yard or someone on here partig out a 97+, get the seals from them.

As for the "pull the window frame method", you need to brace more of the lower door. It needs to be braced all the way to the bottom of the window frame, otherwise the whole door just flexes while you're pulling on the window frame. The wood acts as a pivot point. The lower you have the pivot point, then more of the door is goingto flex. By puttig the pivot point right at the base of the window frame, you're only allowing the frame to pivot, rather than the majority of the door.

 

What I've noticed with my doors is that they wouldn't even meet up with the seal if the door was somehow pushed in. The door sits on the inside of the door opening in the body. It's hard to explain. I removed my striker and closed the door and the door hits the inside of the door jamb without even hitting the seal on the back side (towards the rear of the vehicle.) Everywhere else contacts the seal though.