Can they be combined?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
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From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Before I blow myself and my jeep to smith-r-eens I want to ask something...
I do not have good electrical skills, I do not have good fab skills, and my mechanical skills are mediocre even with someone watching me. But I have common sense and very analytical with most everything I do. Without further-a-do
I am in the process of making my jeep doorless but have power accessories for an 01 XJ sport. I would like to relocate the power switch located on the driver side so that I can still work my power locks and rear windows (the rear doors are not coming off because my 135 pound dog loves to ride with and loves sticking her head out the windows, so just for safety).
THE ISSUE: would it hurt to re-wire a window control switch from a 96 XJ (the block) to wires and harness of my 01? Everything matches up that I am worried about wire wise(do not care about power windows, getting ones that bolt into the a-pillar anyways).
Any suggestions or tid-bits before I do it would be greatly appreciated or if there is anything else I should know. Thanks mates.
I do not have good electrical skills, I do not have good fab skills, and my mechanical skills are mediocre even with someone watching me. But I have common sense and very analytical with most everything I do. Without further-a-do
I am in the process of making my jeep doorless but have power accessories for an 01 XJ sport. I would like to relocate the power switch located on the driver side so that I can still work my power locks and rear windows (the rear doors are not coming off because my 135 pound dog loves to ride with and loves sticking her head out the windows, so just for safety).
THE ISSUE: would it hurt to re-wire a window control switch from a 96 XJ (the block) to wires and harness of my 01? Everything matches up that I am worried about wire wise(do not care about power windows, getting ones that bolt into the a-pillar anyways).
Any suggestions or tid-bits before I do it would be greatly appreciated or if there is anything else I should know. Thanks mates.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Might want to test it first by going wire to wire or something, ..an ohm meter would help to see which switches work which contacts, if you get what I mean
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
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From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, I found a spot that fits the power lock & window controls of the master switch in the drivers door to fit nice and compact under the E-Brake handle. Hopefully if this re-wire works I can get it into this spot or a more comfortable one.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 616
Likes: 4
From: Vernon NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A good place to put the switch block would be on the center conceal next to where the e-brake handle would go. that would be the only spot big enough to fit the switch block. You would have to extend the wires a great deal to get back to the plug behind the kick panel. That is were I would place it if i relocated the switch block.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
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From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A good place to put the switch block would be on the center conceal next to where the e-brake handle would go. that would be the only spot big enough to fit the switch block. You would have to extend the wires a great deal to get back to the plug behind the kick panel. That is were I would place it if i relocated the switch block.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 616
Likes: 4
From: Vernon NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would personally run the wires up over the steering assembly and up the center. This way they are out of the way of debris or feet (in my case) from hitting the wires from behind and causing a frayed wire or short. It will be easier to run under the seat, but some times easier is not always the best way to go.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
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From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would personally run the wires up over the steering assembly and up the center. This way they are out of the way of debris or feet (in my case) from hitting the wires from behind and causing a frayed wire or short. It will be easier to run under the seat, but some times easier is not always the best way to go.
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CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Highly recommend the wiring diagram. You may find there are relays and the BCM involved.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
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From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If i were to just cut out the wires right where the door and body meet there is 12 wires I need and have singled out. Wouldn't it be possible to just cut, pull the harness out from the door, add the 3 feet of wire I need to reach the center console, than splice the wires together and hope it works.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
At that point, you're in the driver's seat, literally. Nothing says you can't do a little experimenting before you chop the wires, strip a little insulation and test that way.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I got all the wires separated from the harness in the door. I just cut the harness off and took the lower set of wires (going doorless so power mirrors are worthless / irrelevant anymore) and connected it to a separate control I got from the JY for $5. Now all my windows and doors still operate like normal except by the new controls next to my e-brake [at work, post pics after I get off].
Everything though transferred over wire for wire out of the ones that I needed. took 14g solid core insulated wire and ran it all the way up under the steering column with no interference of the pedals or turning (honestly, there is a lot of room and was surprised there was so much). Now all i have to do is get the center console cut to fit my switches and wah BAM!! re-wired power doors.
NOTE: for the driver and passenger door, I have used pod disconnects for the 4 wires (up, down, lock, and unlock). Some pictures for now, more later...
Everything though transferred over wire for wire out of the ones that I needed. took 14g solid core insulated wire and ran it all the way up under the steering column with no interference of the pedals or turning (honestly, there is a lot of room and was surprised there was so much). Now all i have to do is get the center console cut to fit my switches and wah BAM!! re-wired power doors.
NOTE: for the driver and passenger door, I have used pod disconnects for the 4 wires (up, down, lock, and unlock). Some pictures for now, more later...
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I got all the wires separated from the harness in the door. I just cut the harness off and took the lower set of wires (going doorless so power mirrors are worthless / irrelevant anymore) and connected it to a separate control I got from the JY for $5. Now all my windows and doors still operate like normal except by the new controls next to my e-brake [at work, post pics after I get off].
Everything though transferred over wire for wire out of the ones that I needed. took 14g solid core insulated wire and ran it all the way up under the steering column with no interference of the pedals or turning (honestly, there is a lot of room and was surprised there was so much). Now all i have to do is get the center console cut to fit my switches and wah BAM!! re-wired power doors.
NOTE: for the driver and passenger door, I have used pod disconnects for the 4 wires (up, down, lock, and unlock). Some pictures for now, more later...
Everything though transferred over wire for wire out of the ones that I needed. took 14g solid core insulated wire and ran it all the way up under the steering column with no interference of the pedals or turning (honestly, there is a lot of room and was surprised there was so much). Now all i have to do is get the center console cut to fit my switches and wah BAM!! re-wired power doors.
NOTE: for the driver and passenger door, I have used pod disconnects for the 4 wires (up, down, lock, and unlock). Some pictures for now, more later...
Beginning stages. Cutting and hacking have started.
Tearing and separating the wires needed vs. unnecessary wires.
Pulling the wires from the door and separation has commenced.
The mirror wires and harness I have just removed entirely from the door. Set up the door controls to mix with the cluster in the car.
This was the harness I detached from the master control that belongs to the windows, window lock, and door lock. I just put in 14g wire and connected using these nifty little connectors.
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