Very nice Willys55. I think some folks needed some clarification as to where things go in an engine.

 

I try my best

 

yea, i didn't *think* that out very well...

 

O.k, I was wondering the same thing and looks like it has been done. Did you ever complete this ? I have gone thru the inspection of flexplate looking at air filter and throttle body for water damage. No cracks or loose bolts and no evidence of water being sucked up. Redneck ear plugs put the knock where you explain in the low end and to the rear of engine. The knock doesn't seem load enough for a bent rod. I plan on dropping pan this weekend and checking connector bolts and trying to inspect bearings. Question: My jeep being a 2001 I can't pull wires from diizzy so would I disconnect injectors or what to see which cylinder it may be ?

Any other help is greatly appreciated.

 

That's how I prefer to do it, disconnect the injector plug. You'll probably get a CEL, just reset it.

 

You mean I can turn that CEL off and it stay off??!! Every time I fix something it comes on for something else, just kinda got use to it being on and checking the codes every week. Thank you for the confirmation on the injectors. I will try to document what I find.

 

Let us know, I'm diagnosing my knock today as well. Mine sounds just like the vid, but I also have low oil pressure so I bet I'm gonna need bearings...

 

Well to answer my original question, Yes you can replace rod bearings without removing the engine. Having a 6.5 inch lift under the jeep helped tremendously with removing the oil pan. I did do the drop and eval of all the connecting rods and bearings giving them all a good shake and push and pull and found that number 6 had play in it, none of the others did. I found out that the PO had replaced the engine with jasper in 2009 by calling the jasper number found on a sticker on side of block. He did not tell me about this but oh well. By working the piston and connecting rod up and off crank then pulling back down beside protected crank you can get to the bearings quite easy. A rubber hammer persuaded the connecting rod bolts to let loose of the crank for the lower half to slide off. It took me the better part of about 20 hours but this is the first time for this kind of stuff. I did change tranny filter and fluid and transfer case fluid while under there. I was able to get it all back together and no leaks so far but I still got a freaking knock. I did not see any evidence of piston slap but thats all I can think of it may be. Any other suggestions would be great.

 

I did take about 22 pictures and 4 videos of this experience as well as documenting torque specs clearance specs just so if I had to go back in. Looks like sooner than later dog gonit. When I get time I will attempt to post some of this.