Steelfan247

Help Needed... I have a 2000 jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 and I'm having an issue with my Cam Shaft Sensor. I replaced the old one because my check engine light came on and got the infamous P0340 code and wouldn't start. I replaced the cam shaft synchronizer and it lasted three days before it failed. The cam shaft I used for replacing was Dorman #689-200 Camshaft Synchronizer. I should buy OEM but heard of others having luck with this Dorman # so went that route. After removing the cap on the sensor it looked like the last one I replaced. It's mutilated inside the cap / looks like it blew up. I did some work on it giving it a facelift so it was in the garage for about 6 months. I did replace the oil pump and the rear main seal. Everything looked good and went in good. That was done while doing the remodel work. I've drove it for a month in a half and now with no problems no check engine light nothing been a good jeep but for the last week I'm having camshaft sensor issues. I thought originally that these just go and it's time to replace but when I removed the sensor and saw how bad it was and needed to replace the whole unit I thought it was a little strange but still didn't think much of it other than it really gave out or blew up but it's old and looks to be the original. So I replaced it and then that one went and looked similar to the original one I replaced. It looks like it's binding and causing it to move enough to bust it up internally. just not sure what is causing the binding...? Jeep has and is getting great oil pressure. The Dorman # lasted 3 days. After removing the 2nd camshaft sensor I gently placed a flat head down in where the oil pump shaft is that the camshaft sensor shaft would slide into and checked to see if it spins freely and smoothly and it did. So the other gear has to be the one that's binding and there's evidence on both sensors gear shafts that show signs / markings of wear or perhaps binding. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated...

Turbo X_J

Those are 2 entirely different parts, if nothing else try a used junkyard one.

CCKen

Don't know much about the '00/'01 OPDA/CPS but I do have a few observations:


1. Did this damage occur after you installed a new oil pump? There have been cases where a high volume oil pump has caused damage to distributors. Noted wear pattern on the original OPDA drive gear in the 1st pic. The oil pump may turn freely using a screwdriver but when the engine is running a high volume pump can offer more resistance than a standard volume pump.


2. Not sure but there may be a chance the OPDA shaft may be pushing up the pulse ring enough to contact the CPS due to the gear riding up on the cam (oil pump issue).


3. I would be concerned about that wear pattern on the original OPDA gear. Look down in the OPDA mount hole and see if there is damage to the camshaft gear.


4. That replacement OPDA does not look exactly like the Dorman 689200 OPDA shown on the Rockauto website. See pic below - Measure the distance from under the OPDA mount flange to the end of the shaft on the old OPDA and compare to the replacement OPDA. The 'Dorman' looks longer.

Steelfan247

(1) Yes the damage has occurred after installing the new oil pump but lasted a month and a half before the 1st camshaft sensor went out.

(2) Attached is a pic of the Oil Pump I installed (took pics of when I installed it). Reads M81AHV on the casting.

(3) last night I looked down in the hole and didn't see any damage to the camshaft gear. I'll look tonight again when I get home and double confirm.

(4) I'll measure check the distance when I get home tonight from work and compare them as stated.

Thanks for the input and feedback. I'm going to try and find out from the parts place I got that oil pump from if its a high volume one? Any other suggestions or input please let me know.... Thanks for the help on this so far.

CCKen

I have a gut feeling that the "HV" in the casting number means High Volume. If you find out that it is a HV pump I suggest that you replace it with a standard volume pump.


Yes, do compare those two OPDA's.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Melling - Oil Pump

Line: MEL | Part # M81AHV-S3

DETAILED DESCRIPTION
High Volume (25% additional volume) Original Equipment style replacement oil pump. Manufactured under strict quality guidelines for long, durable wear. Cast body. Includes (1) installation gasket and (1) screen. For Jeep exc. "DJ" Postal Vehicle.
ADDITIONAL DETAILS
Material: Cast Iron
Intermediate Shaft Included: No
New Or Remanufactured: New
Pickup Screen Included: Yes
Pump Pressure: Standard
Style: High Volume

Your hunch is right Ken!

Steelfan247

Questions or ideas to throw out there..

(1) Is it possible to use a High Volume Oil Pump in a 4.0?

I was planning on doing a motor rebuild in the spring just because the infamous 2000/2001 head issue. I want to take this vehicle on longer road trips this next summer and wanted to feel comfortable and have piece of mind doing so. I understand that using a HV pump has risk of damaging piston rings or valve seals or causing damage to the drive gear. But also have read how people have no issues as long as they change the weight of there oil and install a oil filter adapter to use a larger oil filter...

(2) If I change my oil weight will it help with the High Volume Pump having less resistance. I read others with HV pumps using a 0W-40 weight oil over using a 10W-30.

(3) Would installing a remote oil filter mount help at all?

KD3NE

I am archiving this thread to recall the issue with the high volume pumps.


One thing I have learned strongly over the last month .... what you see on a website may not be what is in the box.

When I contacted the vendors about picture discrepancy I was told " oh we use stock photos " or " manufacturers make changes and we cannot always update pics. ".

I even found one manufacture with such issues.

KD3NE

Assuming viscosity is the issue, you would want the higher number to be lower.

For example ...... you are using 10W40, you would want 10W30

I would not use a 0Wxx oil in any motor where the manufacturer does not call for it. I have a Honda and it specifies 0W20.

If it were me, I would get a standard volume oil pump.

CCKen

The standard 4.0 does not NEED a high volume pump. Just use a standard volume pump and you won't have issues. No trickery with magic oil weights, etc. needed.

Steelfan247

Thanks for the feedback and help going to drop the pan and replace the pump. I'll do an update after I install and run it for a bit. Have a great weekend!

97grand4.0

Am I missing something? Why would a HV oil pump require a different cam sensor from the standard pump?
It does, however, clearly look like he has 2 different cam sensors. The new should be absolutely identical to the old. The helical cuts are obviously different. That would tear up in a heartbeat and sure isn't good for the cam gear. As the OP notes, the shaft length is significantly different as well. Be a big red flag to me if I was the installer. You might be saved though, the CPS gears are made of a softer metal than the cam gear with the purpose of having them fail first if there is a problem.

Steelfan247

Cam synchronizer is a dorman compared to OEM there suppose to be the same and seem to be the same other than it's not the OEM part. I think the photos can be a little mis leading as the splines seems to be exactly the same in person. The pictures kinda seem like a optical illusion compared to seeing it in person. They look identical this making me continue with the install and not raising a red flag on the install.

CCKen

Good job.

97grand4.0

Trying to see how much different that picture is from the ones above, because the new one in those photos sure appears to be much different than the one in this photo, but, ok.