A/C questions - novice - Part 2
#1
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Year: 1995
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A/C questions - novice - Part 2
This is a follow-up to my earlier thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/c-q...novice-245505/
The earlier thread has 4 or 5 pages so I figure it's easier to get right to the questions at hand. I have zero experience working with A/C systems, but I'd like to get my 95's system working if I can do so without spending a lot of money and hopefully learn more about A/C systems in general.
So I ordered a new expansion valve, Receiver/Dryer and o-ring set for my 95 XJ with the factory R134a system. I've verified my compressor kicks on when jumped, so I'm working under the assumption that the compressor is OK until it proves otherwise. My system is completely depleted of refrigerant.
My plan is to replace the o-rings, valve and R/D and then proceed to checking that the system will hold vacuum. (See previous thread)
Question 1: Disconnecting the threaded type fittings - if these give me trouble due to age or corrosion, can I use penetrants (PB Blaster, etc.) and/or heat on the lines?
Question 2: I started unscrewing one of the caps on the new R/D and was surprised that it started making a sound (like air movement hissing). I immediately tightened the cap back up and thinking about it figured that it must be vacuumed or something like that from the factory. Is that the case?
Question 3: I'm assuming that removing and replacing the parts is pretty straightforward, undo the lines, replace o-rings wherever there is an existing one and put it back together. Is this the case or is there something I'm missing? The FSM was pretty vague - remove line, attach line, etc.
Thanks!
The earlier thread has 4 or 5 pages so I figure it's easier to get right to the questions at hand. I have zero experience working with A/C systems, but I'd like to get my 95's system working if I can do so without spending a lot of money and hopefully learn more about A/C systems in general.
So I ordered a new expansion valve, Receiver/Dryer and o-ring set for my 95 XJ with the factory R134a system. I've verified my compressor kicks on when jumped, so I'm working under the assumption that the compressor is OK until it proves otherwise. My system is completely depleted of refrigerant.
My plan is to replace the o-rings, valve and R/D and then proceed to checking that the system will hold vacuum. (See previous thread)
Question 1: Disconnecting the threaded type fittings - if these give me trouble due to age or corrosion, can I use penetrants (PB Blaster, etc.) and/or heat on the lines?
Question 2: I started unscrewing one of the caps on the new R/D and was surprised that it started making a sound (like air movement hissing). I immediately tightened the cap back up and thinking about it figured that it must be vacuumed or something like that from the factory. Is that the case?
Question 3: I'm assuming that removing and replacing the parts is pretty straightforward, undo the lines, replace o-rings wherever there is an existing one and put it back together. Is this the case or is there something I'm missing? The FSM was pretty vague - remove line, attach line, etc.
Thanks!
#2
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Question 1: Disconnecting the threaded type fittings - if these give me trouble due to age or corrosion, can I use penetrants (PB Blaster, etc.) and/or heat on the lines?
Question 2: I started unscrewing one of the caps on the new R/D and was surprised that it started making a sound (like air movement hissing). I immediately tightened the cap back up and thinking about it figured that it must be vacuumed or something like that from the factory. Is that the case?
Question 3: I'm assuming that removing and replacing the parts is pretty straightforward, undo the lines, replace o-rings wherever there is an existing one and put it back together. Is this the case or is there something I'm missing? The FSM was pretty vague - remove line, attach line, etc.
Thanks!
Question 2: I started unscrewing one of the caps on the new R/D and was surprised that it started making a sound (like air movement hissing). I immediately tightened the cap back up and thinking about it figured that it must be vacuumed or something like that from the factory. Is that the case?
Question 3: I'm assuming that removing and replacing the parts is pretty straightforward, undo the lines, replace o-rings wherever there is an existing one and put it back together. Is this the case or is there something I'm missing? The FSM was pretty vague - remove line, attach line, etc.
Thanks!
2. A new receiver-drier is vacuum sealed to keep moisture out. It should only be exposed to atmosphere for as short a time as possible while installing.
3. It should be straightforward. I like to use Nylog on the o-rings and seals, it helps prevent leaks. Failing that, use PAG oil on them.
#3
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Awesome! Thanks for the info.
So I'll get everything else done first and save the connecting of the R/D until last.I'll look into the o-ring sealer.
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Along the same lines - Rock Auto carries several brands for A/C components -
UAC
GPD
Spectra
Four Seasons
Any clear winner? Any to stay away from? Prices are similar. Thanks.
UAC
GPD
Spectra
Four Seasons
Any clear winner? Any to stay away from? Prices are similar. Thanks.
#5
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BTW, a good source of information on automotive AC issues in general is:
https://forum.aircondition.com/forum/main-forum
#7
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Great info - Thanks Rambler!
So I ordered a bottle of the nylog. I'm going to take some time this weekend and make sure that I can get all the lines apart (and get familiar with where they are, etc.) and then probably next weekend do the o-ring replacement.
So I ordered a bottle of the nylog. I'm going to take some time this weekend and make sure that I can get all the lines apart (and get familiar with where they are, etc.) and then probably next weekend do the o-ring replacement.
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Year: 1995
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I will have to do the same thing to my own '95 air conditioning system. I'll be moving right along side you in doing this. I too am replacing the dryer.. and all the o rings. And will pull a vaccuum with that pump I got off Amazon.
We'll have to compare how our systems turn out.
One thing I did was. I removed my airconditioning radiator and inspected it carefully. I cleaned out the fins with a fin comb and replaced all rusty hardware.
We'll have to compare how our systems turn out.
One thing I did was. I removed my airconditioning radiator and inspected it carefully. I cleaned out the fins with a fin comb and replaced all rusty hardware.
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I just replaced my entire AC system this week minus the compressor. Ordered a mix of Four Seasons and UAC parts and all of it seemed to be of the same decent build quality. Was able to pull the old system and replace the parts in under 2 hours.
#10
If the lines have never been apart, you need to be patient with the connectors to the condenser. If it's the same as the later XJs, you'll have quick disconnects. I had to insert the quick disconnect tool and then push, pull, twist, reinsert tool, push, pull, twist (repeat at least 25 times). Took awhile but was able to get them all off. Same drill with one to the evap core.
It's really pretty simple once you start digging in. There are only a handful of connections you need to refurb.
It's really pretty simple once you start digging in. There are only a handful of connections you need to refurb.
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I will also be doing an A/C rebuild on my 98XJ. When I bought it the condenser was missing, the lines to it were cut and bent out of the way, and it’s unknown if the compressor even works. I’ve replaced the lines and condenser but need to swap the seals and accumulator before I try putting a vacuum on it.
It sounds like I should test the compressor before I charge it up. You just jump the plug that goes to the low pressure port (the one on top of the accumulator?) and then see if the compressor clutch kicks in?
It sounds like I should test the compressor before I charge it up. You just jump the plug that goes to the low pressure port (the one on top of the accumulator?) and then see if the compressor clutch kicks in?
#12
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Yes, jump it at the plug, but don't let it run for long since there's no oil in there.Outersketcher - You're definitely further along than I am. I just started pulling the lines today (the ones I had wrenches to fit) and need to grab some wrenches from my Dad or buy some more to fit the bigger connectors.What did you have to take apart to get at the condenser? I just want to get at the connectors for the lines. However, if it's just as much work to remove it, then I'll do the same and clean and replace hardware.
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There's a 3rd thread with additional info.
I had leaking at my Schrader valves, so I lost my original refrigerant charge. This resulted in my decision to replace the condenser and the lines with the service ports in them (so new schrader valves). I'll hopefully be able to do this this weekend.
Amazon is taking it painfully slow in shipping the electronic leak detector and new switch, but so far they still say I'll have them prior to the weekend.
That little pump works amazing to suck it down to -30!