A/C Leak traced to inside dash
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Butt cold minnesota
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
So I have a fairly large leak (charge lasts only about a month)and service guy says its in the dash, and likely to be the evaporator. Anyone have this issue, since every XJ issue appears common!? His rough estimate is ridiculous $, so it's me or nothing.
Is this worth fixing, and is this DIYer, or a major ordeal? What would I be getting into?
Help!
Is this worth fixing, and is this DIYer, or a major ordeal? What would I be getting into?
Help!
Removing the dash is not that big of a deal, just take your time and keep everything organized. Heater core is 16 years old, might as well replace that too before it blows.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree on replacing the heater core while your in there. You can get a new 4 seasons evap core on www.rockauto.com for about $60, and a new heater core for less than $40. I know this becasue i just ordered both for my '98. Seems i have a leak too, but mine is only lasting about a week before it drops so low it won't work.
I'm pasting my response below to a similar question someone asked back in May.
I'm pasting my response below to a similar question someone asked back in May.
Go ahead and replace your heater core while you're in there, especially since hotter weather is coming and you will presumable be using your newly repaired AC. AC load will test any weaknesses in your cooling system, and heater cores are common failure items.
Also, check the operation of all of your air plenum control doors/flaps for proper operation, binding, deteriorated seals, etc. Try www.heatertreater.net for common repair kits, or a JY or the stealership.
This is also a good time to give the inside of that plenum a cleaning, as best you can, especially if you notice any funky smells when first turning on your heat or AC.
You may want to go ahead and drill a couple of holes through the firewall and install rubber grommets while it's easier to do if you intend to ever run addition electrical accessories with switches in the cabin. Lights, alarm, on-board air, etc. Just dab a little bit of silicone caulk over the center hole of the grommets until you are ready to use them.
Arm yourself with zip ties to secure wiring looms during reassembly, and also with a couple rolls of cheap foam rubber self-adhesive weatherstrip as well. The weatherstrip (Home Depot. I recommend 1/4"-3/8" wide and 1/8"-1/4" thick. about $3 for a 25 ft. roll) can be used between several of the plastic dash parts as they go back together to prevent rubbing and all of the creaks and squeaks our Jeeps are known for. You'll see places where the factory installed felt or rubber bushings for this same purpose. Some may be cracked, brittle, missing, or worn through. Use you judgement on where to apply.
Lastly, on some years, the condensation drain for the AC that passes through the firewall is known to leak back into the cabin. My '02 TJ did this badly. My fix was to glue a 1/2" or 3/4" PVC elbow from Home Depot to the end of that drain pipe so that it exits in a downward position, rather than straight out. I've found that the straight out approach by the factory can allow for easy clogging of the exit tube with mud/dirt, and can also allow air pressure during highway speeds to blow water back against the firewall where it will leak in between the firewall and the foam gasket they put there. That 25 cent part and some clear silicone around where you see the factory gasket for the drain tube fixed my soggy passenger floorboard for good!
Also, check the operation of all of your air plenum control doors/flaps for proper operation, binding, deteriorated seals, etc. Try www.heatertreater.net for common repair kits, or a JY or the stealership.
This is also a good time to give the inside of that plenum a cleaning, as best you can, especially if you notice any funky smells when first turning on your heat or AC.
You may want to go ahead and drill a couple of holes through the firewall and install rubber grommets while it's easier to do if you intend to ever run addition electrical accessories with switches in the cabin. Lights, alarm, on-board air, etc. Just dab a little bit of silicone caulk over the center hole of the grommets until you are ready to use them.
Arm yourself with zip ties to secure wiring looms during reassembly, and also with a couple rolls of cheap foam rubber self-adhesive weatherstrip as well. The weatherstrip (Home Depot. I recommend 1/4"-3/8" wide and 1/8"-1/4" thick. about $3 for a 25 ft. roll) can be used between several of the plastic dash parts as they go back together to prevent rubbing and all of the creaks and squeaks our Jeeps are known for. You'll see places where the factory installed felt or rubber bushings for this same purpose. Some may be cracked, brittle, missing, or worn through. Use you judgement on where to apply.
Lastly, on some years, the condensation drain for the AC that passes through the firewall is known to leak back into the cabin. My '02 TJ did this badly. My fix was to glue a 1/2" or 3/4" PVC elbow from Home Depot to the end of that drain pipe so that it exits in a downward position, rather than straight out. I've found that the straight out approach by the factory can allow for easy clogging of the exit tube with mud/dirt, and can also allow air pressure during highway speeds to blow water back against the firewall where it will leak in between the firewall and the foam gasket they put there. That 25 cent part and some clear silicone around where you see the factory gasket for the drain tube fixed my soggy passenger floorboard for good!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Me and the AC guy recently finished a 6 month leak gremlin, that ended up with replacment of evaporator (2x), condensor, drier and in the end the compressor.
Did the high and low cut out switch while at it, and several 100's of $$ later(especially here in Oz this stuff costs ridiculous $$) if appears to be fixed.
My idea is, if you're not known to A/C work, get help. And yes, that will always costs you lots of $$. It would not be the DIYI'd like to do again.
Did the high and low cut out switch while at it, and several 100's of $$ later(especially here in Oz this stuff costs ridiculous $$) if appears to be fixed.
My idea is, if you're not known to A/C work, get help. And yes, that will always costs you lots of $$. It would not be the DIYI'd like to do again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
daddytuck
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
Sep 7, 2015 08:16 PM
daddytuck
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
Sep 7, 2015 07:50 PM
daddytuck
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
Sep 7, 2015 05:51 PM
shotseven
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
Sep 6, 2015 03:06 PM
canada_man
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
Sep 4, 2015 11:05 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




