A/C Issues 200 XJ Classic
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A/C Issues 200 XJ Classic
I'm having an issue in that it was cooling fine for about a year since I purchased it. Then it stopped cooling so I thought it would be a leak. It gets hot around here (100 degrees) so I decided to refill. Checked with an idiot gauge from those drain and refill cans and it was low. I pushed in on the high port to let out anything left and it looked like mostly air no gas. I did notice it had a greenish liquid coming out, which leads me to believe it had been tested for leaks. Before completely discharging the system I poured soapy water on ports to rule out a leak there. I noticed the high port valve was leaking. I replaced and refilled with a can of artic freeze. Worked like a charm for about 4 months, ice cold, but now it's not cooling as much on start up. Usually it blows cold after a few minutes. I now have to move the fan to position three to feel cooler air. I've also noted the compressor is cutting out a lot in the mornings when I start it. Dunno if this is normal. Then there will be days it works fine. Some nights I get home and pop the hood and the accumulator is dry, then last night I checked under the hood and the whole thing was super wet with condensation in all lines. I don't get it. I'm thinking there is a blockage some where or sensor. Any ideas?
Last edited by T-Roy-TX; 07-24-2014 at 04:22 PM.
#2
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I'm having an issue similar in that it was cooling fine for about a year since I purchased it. Then it stopped cooling so I thought it would be a leak. It gets hot around here (100 degrees) so I decided to refill. Checked with an idiot gauge from those drain and refill cans and it was low. I pushed in on the high port to let out anything left and it looked like mostly air no gas. I did notice it had a greenish liquid coming out, which leads me to believe it had been tested for leaks. Before completely discharging the system I poured soapy water on ports to rule out a leak there. I noticed the high port valve was leaking. I replaced and refilled with a can of artic freeze. Worked like a charm for about 4 months, ice cold, but now it's not cooling as much on start up. Usually it blows cold after a few minutes. I now have to move the fan to position three to feel cooler air. I've also noted the compressor is cutting out a lot in the mornings when I start it. Dunno if this is normal. Then there will be days it works fine. Some nights I get home and pop the hood and the accumulator is dry, then last night I checked under the hood and the whole thing was super wet with condensation in all lines. I don't get it. I'm thinking there is a blockage some where or sensor. Any ideas?
Have the low & high sensors checked. i would start with the inexpensive things first.
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#4
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follow-up
So its been about 9 months since my last post regarding the A/C. It was low and I did drop a can in and it cooled wonderfully. So, last week it starts getting weak again. I figure it is a very slow leak because it lasted 9 months. I know it has been dye tested because when I filled it last time some dye came out both ports. I bought a dye detection kit and couldn't find anything significant in the lines or inside the vents. I did notice on the a/c valves. I had replaced the hi side last because it was leaking there. Checked by putting a little water which bubbled. I checked again this time and no leak on hi. I checked low and it bubbled a couple of times and then died out. Not sure if it is truly leaking there.
I would like to replace that one, but it seems the valve is long and deep in the port. I tried using the old valve tool I purchased with the kit last year but the valve pin is too wide to fit in the autozone tool and the tool is not long enough. Anyone know where I can get the proper tool? Should I get the valve from Jeep stealership??? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I would like to replace that one, but it seems the valve is long and deep in the port. I tried using the old valve tool I purchased with the kit last year but the valve pin is too wide to fit in the autozone tool and the tool is not long enough. Anyone know where I can get the proper tool? Should I get the valve from Jeep stealership??? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L
So its been about 9 months since my last post regarding the A/C. It was low and I did drop a can in and it cooled wonderfully. So, last week it starts getting weak again. I figure it is a very slow leak because it lasted 9 months. I know it has been dye tested because when I filled it last time some dye came out both ports. I bought a dye detection kit and couldn't find anything significant in the lines or inside the vents. I did notice on the a/c valves. I had replaced the hi side last because it was leaking there. Checked by putting a little water which bubbled. I checked again this time and no leak on hi. I checked low and it bubbled a couple of times and then died out. Not sure if it is truly leaking there. I would like to replace that one, but it seems the valve is long and deep in the port. I tried using the old valve tool I purchased with the kit last year but the valve pin is too wide to fit in the autozone tool and the tool is not long enough. Anyone know where I can get the proper tool? Should I get the valve from Jeep stealership??? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Sounds great! I'll look it up. Dis you just replace it with a regular valve? I'm thinking when these were built they special made. Looks kind of deep in there. I'll change it and then get it vacuumed and hopefully that is it. Thanks!
How about this one?
How about this one?
Last edited by T-Roy-TX; 04-06-2015 at 01:27 PM.
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Sounds great! I'll look it up. Dis you just replace it with a regular valve? I'm thinking when these were built they special made. Looks kind of deep in there. I'll change it and then get it vacuumed and hopefully that is it. Thanks! How about this one? Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-81290-Universal-Remover-Installer/dp/B000I0VKGK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZC3G33SDJD0X P9E2FQE
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#9
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Have you tried advanced auto? I went there yesterday and they got me the tool and, what they said, was a vehicle specific kit. It includes the caps and 5 different valves. Two look exactly like the stock valve. I'll let you know how it goes. I took a look to see if the tool fit and it did. When I took the cap off I heard a hissing sound. I tried putting some plastic at the very top of the valve to make a bit of a seal for the time being. Pressure is probably to much for that. I'll probably wait until it leaks more to change it. I don't have the recovery machine, otherwise it would get it done sooner. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by T-Roy-TX; 04-07-2015 at 05:06 PM.
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follow-up prblems
OK, more problems with the A/C. It stops cooling after it has been idling or in line at the drive thru during lunch. The compressor dies and not cycle again until after a few hours. I ran the gauges and this is what I get (see picture). It looks like low on low side and high on high side. This was with outside temp of 85. So it looks like something is clogged. Should I start with anything in specific or just bite the bullet and tear down the dash and replace all the components. It seemed to be cooling fine and the compressor was not cutting off. It was nice and cool inside and just kept running like a champ.
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Year: 2001, 1997
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Check to make sure the clutch is actually engaging the compressor. Often time the clutch plate wears and needs to be retimed. Commonly reported as "intermittent A/C". If you do not have sufficient air flow through the condenser, high pressure side will get too high. Make sure your fan clutch is good. If it's over five years old, for the $35 it costs I would do it. At this time there is no reason to open up the A/C system.
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Thanks for the heads up. Clutch looks solid. Don't spin freely when warm or cold. I think it might be clogged. Usually when it stops cooling it will not after hours. I think when I connected the gauges it might have loosened the clog or something. I'll look at the clutch, I've only had it a couple years.
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Had similar problem with clutch cycling on-and-off..... here is what I found and it fixed it fine. And yes I know it is not a permanent fix this is the second summer post fix and it is still working great.
Essentially there is a little shim.... extremely thin... on the clutch shaft. Remove the clutch (no need to remove any belts) remove the shim maybe two if there are more than one... put her back together.
Essentially there is a little shim.... extremely thin... on the clutch shaft. Remove the clutch (no need to remove any belts) remove the shim maybe two if there are more than one... put her back together.
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Thanks MACherokee! That's actually a very informative video. I'll keep it as reference. I was referring to the chaining the cooling fan clutch. It seems to be pulling more air into the engine. I ran it last night and it cooled very well for about 30 minutes at idle. I turned it off at the local walmart and made some purchases. When I restarted it would not cool after again. I need to check the pressure again and report back. I'm thinking the high side may be a little lower now that the fan clutch is cooling better. I'll take a look at the a/c clutch after that.
Had similar problem with clutch cycling on-and-off..... here is what I found and it fixed it fine. And yes I know it is not a permanent fix this is the second summer post fix and it is still working great.
Essentially there is a little shim.... extremely thin... on the clutch shaft. Remove the clutch (no need to remove any belts) remove the shim maybe two if there are more than one... put her back together.
2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ A/C Clutch and Shim Removal - YouTube
Essentially there is a little shim.... extremely thin... on the clutch shaft. Remove the clutch (no need to remove any belts) remove the shim maybe two if there are more than one... put her back together.
2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ A/C Clutch and Shim Removal - YouTube