A/c evap replacement part list.
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A/c evap replacement part list.
I need to do this before summer comes around. My A/c evap went out on me last summer. I've been holding off for a while now and then spring is around the corner and I want to replace it.
I have an a/c machine at work and know how to use it. But I need to know do I need to inject some oil? I want to gather a part list I would or recommended parts to go along with an new a/c evap.
1st thing I would buy is a a/c evap from rock auto. I was thinking replace heater core box as well while I'm in there. What else should I buy along with it? Dryer perhaps?
I have an a/c machine at work and know how to use it. But I need to know do I need to inject some oil? I want to gather a part list I would or recommended parts to go along with an new a/c evap.
1st thing I would buy is a a/c evap from rock auto. I was thinking replace heater core box as well while I'm in there. What else should I buy along with it? Dryer perhaps?
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L HO
Minimum new parts are new accumulator/dryer, liquid line/orifice tube (both are filters), a/c flush and possibly o-rings. Another +/-$275 gets a new compressor and and manifold (rubber hose assembly). The old condenser and old manifold lines need to be flushed and blown out with compressed air. Compressor needs to be removed, turned upside down and all oil drained. Need to find out exactly how many ozs. of both oil and refrigerant for your year model. Add 1/2 of the new oil to new accumulator and other 1/2 oil to the compressor. Button it up, pull/hold a vacuum to check for leaks and add exactly the number of ozs. of refrigerant your year model calls for.
Last edited by djb383; 02-20-2012 at 07:40 PM.
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I priced check at rock auto for dryer, liquid line/orifice tube, condenser all together for $196.35 shipped. I'm not sure if I need the manifold lines as they seem to be fine. The o-rings i already have covered. Is that a good deal or how the parts quality from rock auto?
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Year: 1998
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The rubber hoses deteriorate from the inside out.....u can't tell if they are fine because u can't inspect the old dryer and orifice tube for pieces of rubber. If they are deteriorating internally, they will soon plug a new dryer and orifice tube. About $75 for a new manifold.
Don't know about Rock Auto.....got all our parts locally, that way if there was a problem, parts could be easily/quickly exchanged/replaced.
Does your condenser show signs of leaking?
Don't know about Rock Auto.....got all our parts locally, that way if there was a problem, parts could be easily/quickly exchanged/replaced.
Does your condenser show signs of leaking?
Last edited by djb383; 02-20-2012 at 08:28 PM.
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Alright. So, should I pour this x of amount of oil into the dryer and compressor before button it all up? Will the vacuum suck the oil out regardless?
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Year: 1998
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After we buttoned ours up, took it to a pro to pull vacuum and add refrigerant.
Last edited by djb383; 02-20-2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Gotcha. That the only thing I was wondering about is the oil. Does it matter which port to pour the oil in the for dryer and compressor? I have an pro that works with me that knows a little more about the a/c machine.
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Year: 1998
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IIRC, added oil to both ports on compressor and top port on the dryer. What's most important is measuring the exact amount of oil for your model year.......a little too much oil, poor a/c cooling, not enough oil, bye bye compressor. That's why it's so important to flush all the oil out of the old manifold and to completely drain the oil out of the compressor.
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Year: 1998
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Seems like there was sticker somewhere under the hood stating what type of oil, how many ozs. of oil and how many ozs. of refrigerant. Don't have our XJ handy at the moment.
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Year: 1998
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Don't flush the compressor, just turn it upside down and drain it. The auto parts stores sell a/c system flush....it's a liquid, use a funnel and hose, pour it in the component to be flushed, let sit a bit and blow out well with compressed air.
If u buy a new manifold, sounds like all components will be new and no flush needed.
If u buy a new manifold, sounds like all components will be new and no flush needed.
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Year: 1998
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Noisy bearing(s) just gets worse with time. As they go, they usually produce internal shrapnel. May want to consider replacing the compressor as well. That's why it's very important to replace the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube and flush any components that are not replaced (don't flush the compressor). Don't want shrapnel hitting the internals of a new compressor and don't want shrapnel from an old compressor clogging new dryer and orifice tube.