jorget

ok so i replaced the blower motor resistor and that fixed level selector problem. i noticed that the the ac clutch will engage and disengage same with the electric fan it will turn on then off. does that sound like an electrical problem or low on freon?
whats yours guys oppionon on the parts store freon recharge kit? is worth getting it? i really don't feel like paying over 140 just charge the A/C at a shop

rustcollector

I have the same problem with my 99 XJ limited.
Lost AC cooling, so just getting warm air. Father in Law works for a local Ford dealer (Yeah I know!) but he does stuff for free for me so what the hell!
Anyway, we drained the system, vacuum checked it and it passed, re-oiled it and re-gassed it. Temp reading was -4 degrees from the vents just 5 minutes later!!!!
However 2 days later, no cold AC and clutch kicking in and out! I even noticed the Jeep would not maintain an even speed in slow traffic as the AC cut in and out. Turns out, it has thrown out all the AC refridgerant so we are investigating the problem. Looks like the condensor is fubar-ed.
Don't bother regassing until you find and fix the leak. It will just spit out the new refridgerant so you may just as well buy a can from the parts store and toss it in a ditch as you leave!
But basically your problem is low refridgerant level and the compressor is cutting in and out trying to pressurize the system.
Hope that helps.

Caish

Some cycling off and on is normal, but if its doing it constantly, your low on gar, or its builind to much head pressure.
A set of gauges would show it real quick.

ken72

You can charge it yourself and its quite easy to do. I did mine myself a couple months ago and I have keep nice cool air temps. My clutch was cutting on and then off every 4 -5 secs. Hooked up the cheap recharge guage and it read 20 with the clutch off and then would shoot up to 40 with the clutch on. It kept doing this every 4- 5 secs. I pluged in the recharge kit turned it on and eventualy the clutch kicked on and stayed on. The PSI sat at 30 and I filled it to 40 psi. Works fine now. I have not checked it since and the clutch makes a little whinning noise at start up but that goes away pretty quickly. You can charge it yourself, although there are plenty of people who will tell you to pay someone to do it.

jorget

Do you know how much the pressure should be I. The low side and high?

jorget

So I have the hot air problem fixed but now when I select the air to blow it stays in the defrost position. It's like a vent flap is not in the correct position. Is there an adjusting cable for that?

tnmedic

that is controlled by vacumn not a cable you got a vac line loose or off on the back of the selector panel

jorget

Earlier when I drained my coolant I noticed a vacuum line sucking air by the passenger head light when I turned the a/c on

Willys55

bingo?!

Throttle Jockey

the vac line has to do with the blend door. if your clutch is cycling then you need refrigerent. you may want to invest in a set of guages. they are about 80 bucks at autozone for a decent set. comes with a pressure chart.

jorget

The compressor now stays on that it has freon. Would it be safe just to plug the line or does it go connected somewhere

Throttle Jockey

it goes somewhere. does the air move locations when you change it from say floor to dash to defrost?

jorget

I'll check on that once I get home tonight. And I'll my Haynes manual to see if any diagrams are available

rich

That pressure chart with the gauges is a peice of crap use your fsm to look up the pressures.

jorget

I checked the vaccuum line by the headlight and looks like that one is always on evevn if the ac is not. I chech the line behind the selector and they are all in their pretty good. So it looks like blend door is stay in defrost position even if I turn the ****