Bushings
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 225
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From: Northern, California
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm looking at replacing the bushings on my sway bars and control arms. My question is should I just by the replacement control arms or attempt to replace the bushings myself. Special tools needed? Also I noticed there are several different sizes available for the sway bars.. does anybody know what size Front & Rear I'd have... My XJ is a 98'
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 225
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From: Northern, California
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This is where I was looking for replacements...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...ank|Asc&page=2
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 3
From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
For your sway bar, just bring out a ruler and measure it! And you can definitely do the control arm bushings yourself. A torch would make the job a lot easier for those stubborn bushings that don't wanna budge
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Northern, California
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ok cool what about leaf spring bushings have any of you done those? Will 200k on the rig just about everything needs to be replaced.
I'm looking at replacing the bushings on my sway bars and control arms. My question is should I just by the replacement control arms or attempt to replace the bushings myself. Special tools needed? Also I noticed there are several different sizes available for the sway bars.. does anybody know what size Front & Rear I'd have... My XJ is a 98'
As for the lower control arms, you're in for some work, They will need to be pressed out and can be quite stubborn to remove as that arm is difficult to fixture. I would almost recommend you pick one up from a junk yard and practice on that one before tackling the job. I bet they'll almost give it to you.
If you don't have a press I'd suggest you drill the bushing out (use the largest bit that fits between the inner and outer barrel then go around until the center falls out. Then take a hack saw and cut into the outer ring so that the tension from pressing it in is released.

Don't torch those. It's mess, bad for the environment and takes FOR EVER. do what I was saying with the drill. I've done this a lot on cars with rubber mounted subframes. I promise you, when we switch to solid mounting, its the same thing.
Last edited by s14unimog; Dec 9, 2011 at 01:33 PM.
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