probably about 1-2"

 

SO the rear hatch thats on my XJ (not the original) has a window with Defrost and i have a defrost switch on the dash that is not hooked to anything and as far as i can tell the vehicle never had a rear window defrost. How easy would it be to get rear window defrost?

 

so hey dukie, went to the JY today and pulled a coil off of what i was told was a v8 t-bird (which im questioning), then next to it was a v6 turbocharged t-bird, the coil off the v8 def seemed like it was way less stiff than the one off the v6 turbo, and the v6 one was also about an inch shorter. but was def made of thicker steel. anyways... i decided to go with the one off the v8 since it did not seem as stiff. (this obviously contradicts what you said about the coils) so im thinking either the guy was just wrong about the engine size or the turbo charged t-bird just has different suspension than a basic model, i also noticed the turbo had some sort of electric ride control so maybe that has something to do with it?!?!?!?! any input? i dont want a stiff ride and i wanted to go with the v6 all along cuz i dont want a stiff ride.

 

The turbo coupe has a stiffer suspension bc its aimed toward sport and not luxury. Although the v6 may weigh less, the spring rate will be stiffer to make it sportier. Look for a v6 non-turbo model. Also with the v8 coil being longer, the engine weighs more so therefore it will have a longer spring to compensate for the weight. If it was the same length as the v6 coil it would have to be stiffer to keep the same ride height. Hope that helps some

 

so in other words, i just need to go get springs off of a v6 t-bird if i want the lift without the stiff ride? looks like thats what ill be doing then... haha now that i a set of v8s! ugh!!! maybe ill just give them a shot first... and thanks that did help makes alot of sense.

 

yea give them a shot...easy enough to swap them out of you decide they're too stiff

 

Dos it matter what year

 

i followed what you guys said about the bronco coils and it only lifted the front about 1.5 inches did i do something wrong

 

Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle



So I did the junkyard lift (bought new, though) and my rear brake line to the t-block is short, so i unbolted it. Can I use the 8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer To go from the tblock to where it connects above?

I am talking about the rear softlines in my 1988 Cherokee Loredo. Realized I didn't add that info.

 

What year bronco? Cause 70'ish (up to like 78 or so should've given more than 1 1/2 ..

 

Not a junkyard part, but I did find out that an IAT sensor has the same threads as an oil plug or spark plug. Plug that hole when you move the sensor. Or better yet in a cold weather climate, get an extra from the junkyard and experiment moving the wire from the airbox to the intake manifold when it's cold.

 

terrible awful idea. The only time you would benefit from this is above 85 degrees. Anything below that and you'll be killing your MPGs

 

I found this mod in the technical write-up section and on angelfire's site.

I'll find out about the mileage deal, the plug reaches either location so I can switch back and forth. All I know is that when it is 32 degrees and drizzling in MN, steam still vaporizes from the hood even though the engine temp is fine. On a fall day the temp still gets to the 130's under the hood and got to 92 inside the stock airbox.

Under hood, the temp is running a little high because it was before a new radiator install.


In stock airbox


Junkyard!


I'm a former farmer who is now an analyst, this is more fun than I can stand. I just thought it was interesting that the IAT, plugs and oil plug were threaded the same. An oil plug is $1.29 at napa, the hardware store wanted $3.50 and had to cut it to the right length.

 

my gess is it was late 70s i like the way it rides now i just nees to do something in the rear

 

Im trying to hook stock switches up as well. It appears that while most cherokees that had options available for certain years have main wire harnesses with the features, some features require pigtails to complete the add on, or have thr connectors taped back out of sight. Both of my heeps have rear defrost, and neither had a full switch complement (the 93 had rear defrost and washer, the 91 had rear defros and trans shift switch).

Whst I fojnd is that some jeeps have all the connectors and some dont. The 91 I have has the connectors for all the switches (rear wash, defrost, fog lights, and trans shift), but i cant find the fog light connectors under the front bezel. I suspect that there is a pigtail that plugs in under the airbox.

In the case.of the dash switches, since I want both jeeps to have all options, im looking for the connectors myself presently. I found one unaccounted for 8position connector so far, but not the skinny ones like on the switches. Will write back if I find them.

On mine, and on the set I cut out of a jy, the connector for defrost is a red 6 position with only 4 wires.

I would be more concerned whether the person reconnected the hatch wiring at all when they put the hatch in. If you still have sound they might have hooked it up.

If all else fails, you could just figure out if either side is already hooked to ground, and put a switch, fuse, and a wire back to the hatch to hit the other side with. It just takes 12 volts acoss it to heat up.