Took off my driveshaft tonight to grease the slip yoke (to cure the annoying thumping). Well, one of the four bolts that hold the DS to the rear differential broke shear off. 
Read a little online on the best way to get that little bastard out but wanted to hear any wisdom here on the best way. My plan is to head to Sears tomorrow and get a set of Easy Out bits and try to get it out that way. I'm hoping to do it without removing the yoke, which I have no experience doing and am afraid to mess up.
I'm hoping that if I soak that bastard in liquid wrench (which I already did trying to get the stupid bolt out in the first place) I can either get it out with the Easy Out bit, or if my regular drill bit catches, to push that puppy out the back end.
HELP!

Read a little online on the best way to get that little bastard out but wanted to hear any wisdom here on the best way. My plan is to head to Sears tomorrow and get a set of Easy Out bits and try to get it out that way. I'm hoping to do it without removing the yoke, which I have no experience doing and am afraid to mess up.
I'm hoping that if I soak that bastard in liquid wrench (which I already did trying to get the stupid bolt out in the first place) I can either get it out with the Easy Out bit, or if my regular drill bit catches, to push that puppy out the back end.
HELP!

Junior Member
you're going to need kobalt bits, left turn bits if you have them. u joint bolts are hardened. make sure you have the shaft in a vise where it won't wiggle, drill straight and it should twist right out. snap on actually sells a really nice bolt remover kit which i've used many times. the same kit is produced by irwin and is
Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece: Home Improvement
might be able to use this kit if you just want the small ones
might be able to use this kit if you just want the small ones
CF Veteran
try spraying with pb blast let soak for little while ,with small screw driver see if you can get it to back out .sometimes this will work
Quote:
I like this idea but how would I get the screwdriver to catch on anything. Would I have to make a slot and if so how. Thanks.Originally Posted by freegdr
try spraying with pb blast let soak for little while ,with small screw driver see if you can get it to back out .sometimes this will work
Yeah I think I'm going to skip the bolt extractors and go with the U-bolt idea. Read too many things about them not working or breaking.
U bolts seem like a stronger solution anyways. Found a good write up for a strap to U-bolt conversion. Now I just hope my local parts store has the right fitting U bolts.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...version-28141/
U bolts seem like a stronger solution anyways. Found a good write up for a strap to U-bolt conversion. Now I just hope my local parts store has the right fitting U bolts.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...version-28141/
Member
The easy outs may be your best alternative. Dorman makes replacement strap & bolt packs and they are on the Help! wall at any AZ if you just want to replace them with the equivalents.
I just replaced the u-joints on the wife's '97 and have never had an issue with them failing before. The rear joint failed this time, not the mount.
I just replaced the u-joints on the wife's '97 and have never had an issue with them failing before. The rear joint failed this time, not the mount.
CF Veteran
Tbh a new centering yoke is easy. About a 40 dollar job if you dont have the 1 1/8 drive for a 1/2 ratchet
Centering yoke is only like 25 bucks, bit is like 10 and new straps like 5-10 depending
Centering yoke is only like 25 bucks, bit is like 10 and new straps like 5-10 depending
Update. Spent a couple of hours this morning widening the holes and drilling out the stuck bolt in preparation for the new U bolts. Brand new titanium 5/16 drill bit made pretty quick work of the yoke.
Trickiest part was drilling out the broken bolt, which is a much harder metal. Note to others doing that, definitely start with a smaller bit than the 5/16 and step up.
End product is a way way beefier connection and one that will be a whole heck of a lot easier to remove next time.
Trickiest part was drilling out the broken bolt, which is a much harder metal. Note to others doing that, definitely start with a smaller bit than the 5/16 and step up.
End product is a way way beefier connection and one that will be a whole heck of a lot easier to remove next time.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Trickiest part was drilling out the broken bolt, which is a much harder metal. Note to others doing that, definitely start with a smaller bit than the 5/16 and step up.
End product is a way way beefier connection and one that will be a whole heck of a lot easier to remove next time.
Looks good, glad ya got it fixedOriginally Posted by Muaddib420
Update. Spent a couple of hours this morning widening the holes and drilling out the stuck bolt in preparation for the new U bolts. Brand new titanium 5/16 drill bit made pretty quick work of the yoke.Trickiest part was drilling out the broken bolt, which is a much harder metal. Note to others doing that, definitely start with a smaller bit than the 5/16 and step up.
End product is a way way beefier connection and one that will be a whole heck of a lot easier to remove next time.

