Broken Rear Axle Brake Hard Line
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: St. Albert
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
16 Posts
Model: Cherokee
The quickest way is also the only way- replace it. You may have to use some penetrating oil and/or heat on the fittings to get them to back out of the block and wheel cylinder.
If you aren't sure what to get, bring the old line and fittings in and match it up.
If you aren't sure what to get, bring the old line and fittings in and match it up.
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It appears the line broke off when you were turning the flare nut (I noticed the shiny thread showing)... Likely you will have issues at the wheel cylinder end as well... I just let that end twist off the line as well... Then measure the length of the line and head out to your favorite parts store and get a premade (cut and flared) line... Bend the new line sorta like the old one is and then make minor bends to make it fit... I like to put some Never-Seaze on the line area under the flare nut just to make the next guys time in there easier... Turns out that guy ends up being me most of the time... Not so much with brake lines, but more so in other areas...
#4
CF Veteran
Like Radi said, replace it, there is really nothing possible (or wanted) with that old line there.
Trick for the wheelcylinder if it is as rusted at the connection as this brakeline: Twist the wheelcylinder to 'unscrew' the line from it, instead of trying to turn the nut of the brakeline where it connects to the wheelcylinder (since this will likely give you the same problem as in the picture). So, remove the rear drum to get access to this.
Trick for the wheelcylinder if it is as rusted at the connection as this brakeline: Twist the wheelcylinder to 'unscrew' the line from it, instead of trying to turn the nut of the brakeline where it connects to the wheelcylinder (since this will likely give you the same problem as in the picture). So, remove the rear drum to get access to this.
#5
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Nice, time for new hard lines. If you don't get a pre-bent one, be careful to not put any line where the bumpstops can crush 'em. Ask me how I know
Also, what happened to your axle vent?
Also, what happened to your axle vent?
#6
CF Veteran
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Like Radi said, replace it, there is really nothing possible (or wanted) with that old line there.
Trick for the wheelcylinder if it is as rusted at the connection as this brakeline: Twist the wheelcylinder to 'unscrew' the line from it, instead of trying to turn the nut of the brakeline where it connects to the wheelcylinder (since this will likely give you the same problem as in the picture). So, remove the rear drum to get access to this.
Trick for the wheelcylinder if it is as rusted at the connection as this brakeline: Twist the wheelcylinder to 'unscrew' the line from it, instead of trying to turn the nut of the brakeline where it connects to the wheelcylinder (since this will likely give you the same problem as in the picture). So, remove the rear drum to get access to this.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
You' re right. But might not even need to hassle the flarenut. Anyway, different options given, OP to choose
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wybuck
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
17
01-30-2024 08:59 AM
MACherokee
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
3
08-20-2015 01:57 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)