I have a 97 cherokee. Started having weird voltage issues. Upon inspecting it the power wire was burnt up. I attempted to remove the nut and broke the stud. It still has a few threads left but any ideas if it can be replaced or how to fix it?
Thanks

 

Replace the alternator.


Crimp on a new ring terminal.

 

Rectifier terminal. It will cost around $25+ to replace/rebuild. May as well replace the brush if going that route.

 

Dress the threads, pack epoxy putty in there, then with a nut on there snug it w/washer into the putty. Let it cure overnight. Now you have the threaded stud sticking out from the nut/washer you just fitted.

Might be nice if there were enough thread to be able to snug it tight after the putty cures. The head of that "stud" may need to be held against a contact in there. (or not)

Do you have an insulator piece that fit's in there?

 

This site has replacement parts for Denso alternators.

http://www.aspwholesale.com/

This rectifier listed for a 90 amp, 97 2.5 liter may be the same for a 90 / 117 amp 4.0L.

Rectifier - Replaces - Denso 021580-3640, 021580-3680, 021580-4660, 021580-4670, 021580-4840, 021580-5270, Isuzu 8-97046-414-0, 8-97070-808-0, Toyota 27357-74140, 27357-74260, 27357-74290

http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.ph...roduct_id=1370

Denso's often use the same parts such as a stator, rotor and/or rectifier for different years XJ 2.5 and 4.0L.

If you enter part numbers from the alternator in the search box sometimes it will match your alternator and display a parts list.

You can also email them with the alternator's part numbers and they should be able to determine the correct rectifier.

NIPPONDENSO 90, 120 AMP FOR CHRYSLER

INR403P RECTIFIER - 75, 90, 117A Alts. w/ 17mm Rotor Shaft (w/ Grd. Strap Hole, 40A Press-Fit Diodes)
INR727P RECTIFIER - 90A Alts. w/ 15mm Rotor Shaft (40A Press-Fit Diodes)
INR728P RECTIFIER - 120A Alts. (wo/ Grd. Strap Hole, 40A Press-Fit Diodes)
INR729P RECTIFIER - 75, 90, 117A Alts. w/ 17mm Rotor Shaft (wo/ Grd. Strap Hole, 40A Press-Fit Diodes)

 

This is by far the best answer and very possibly the cheapest also. I know the labor would be less and a new/rebuilt are cheap, plus you have a warranty to boot.

 

Good opportunity for a 136 ZJ upgrade

 

and 2gauge battery cables

 

It's sometimes easier to just get a replacement alternator. However some of the aftermarket replacements don't last and will fail prematurely. I've had factory OEM's with over ~175,000+ miles whereas some name-brand aftermarkets have failed at around ~20,000 miles.

When purchasing any less expensive alternator, under ~$200.00 I usually take a look at the warranty. Some such as Delco-Remy come with a lifetime warranty.

 

I was hoping not to have to replace jusr because i dont have an extra 100+ to spend. Any ideas on where to get ones for ela decent price if i cant grt this one repaired?

 

Rock Auto has some good prices.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=2412

New is better than remans, known for premature failure. Look for a lifetime warranty vs 1 - 2 year warranty.

Take in consideration the number of miles and use of the alternator, whether it's a less expensive aftermarket or OEM. Alternators potentially wear out faster running under heavier amp loads, increases temperatures. 90 or 117/120 amp? number for miles? type of use? aftermarket or OEM? If lower miles I might just pop in a new rectifier, they're not difficult to replace. New brushes if worn.

You didn't provide much information about the alternator other than the broken B+ terminal and cable connection. Possibly the voltage problems are a result of the broken B+ and connector. I would look for what caused the damage to the alternator and connector and do any needed adjustments and repairs, to prevent from re-occurring.

You should be able to either add a union or thick nut to extend the stud with the existing threads. I would use a die lowering the threads and union or nut. Your B+ may be up higher, without the OEM isolator.

Some people run alternator without a B+ isolator. I've made isolators for 1/0 and 2/0 cable connections out of small plastic bottles and a glue gun. The bottle opening is about the same size as the area around the B+, bottle is cut a certain length with a slot for the connector, glue is then poured inside, nuts and washers are used to secure the cable connection.

Here's a pic of another kind of fix using a bolt/stud extension.

 

was it the death of the alternator that melted wire and stud?

 

just got new alt. from rock. worried about what melted wire and nut in the first place.