wmpttr125

The front bolt on my leaf pack broke off and is now stuck in the frame. I've read several threads about people cutting the floor board under the rear seat and getting to it that way, but I can't weld a new nut on there if I bust the original one off. Another thread said to drill it out and tap new threads, but that seemed to be unsuccessful for most people. Any other ideas out there?

Radi

You're probably going to have to cut an access hole somewhere, under the seat is the easiest to patch back up. Not really a lot of options.

salad

The bolt snapped or the welded nut broke off?

Like Radi said about the only way you're getting that out is to go from inside the cab. You're not drilling out a 10.9.

Now you know why I spent 3 days removing my leaf springs!

wmpttr125

The bolt snapped. So from the cab I'd have to cut an access hole then break off the weld nut?

salad

Man how the hell did you snap a 10.9 bolt? I wonder if they were replaced with something sub-par.

Did it snap right at the hole? Is there enough to grab with say a pipe wrench?

wmpttr125

It snapped pretty much in half, I think there's a little bit left in the leaf pack. It might've been replaced at some point, it snapped pretty easy I just had a ratchet on it, no impact gun or breaker bar

PocketsEmpty

Pics?

So, the front leaf spring bolt actually has a weld nut inside the unirail? That sucks. I thought it was only that top bolt for the shackle in the rear that had that.

salad

Wow. Either your bolts have been sitting in brine or someone must have replaced them with a **** grade.

Are you particularly attached to your current springs? If you're installing all new ones it's time to get out the grinder and cut the eyes.

Nope front and back. It's pretty lame. It's not literally inside the rail though, there's a pocket that it's welded into, and that's attached to the rail. Spaces it out 3/4" or so.

wmpttr125

I'll take some pics when I get home, you can't really see anything though since the leaf pack is still on. I'll have to do a little research on that lock nut, I can't weld so I'm not sure what I'll do if I have to break it off

PocketsEmpty

So is this highly uncommon to happen, and most guys who lift their XJs reuse the factory weld nut?

Sorry for any threadjacking, just interested in challenges I may face when I remove my inverted stock leafers. Good thing I have a welder now, lol

wmpttr125

It's not too common but it does happen sometimes

salad

Yeah that's why everything took me so long. PB Blaster for several days prior, then three days of, turn it a few degrees, PB Blaster, turn it BACK to get the oil in the threads, PB Blast it again, turn it a few more degrees, oil a bit, turn it back, oil it, turn it forward... Every now and then I'd hit it with the torch. Worked great. Didn't help with the seized sleeves inside the bushings unfortunately. No way around that except to cut and cut and cut, which is what took most of my time.

wmpttr125

I guess I'll have to cut the floor under the seat and break off that nut

OxfordCherokee2

If you were replacing the springs and didnt want to cut the floor out. You could cut the leaf spring off with a torch. Just cut the leaf off of the bushing and then use a razor blade knife to cut through the bushing. Then you can cut the sleeve off with the torch or a grinder and you should be able to get a pipe wrench on the bolt then. It sounds like a lot of work but I have had to cut the leaf springs off the last 3 XJ's I have lifted because the bolt was seized in the sleeve.

Just be careful that you dont let the molten rubber get on anything you dont want it to like tools. It never seems to go away unless you clean it with laquer thinner.

salad

That's exactly what I did. Burning rubber when the grinder hit it sucked though. Driver's side inner sleeve I cut into tiny little ringlets before I could get the bolt all the way out.