Brake work
04-16-2011, 09:14 AM
#1
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Brake work
Alright. Fixing to check out the brake system today on the 96xj today. Brakes are a little squishy for my liking.
Need some advice. Do I start with the front brakes since they provide most the stopping power?
How can I tell if the pistons are sticking in the front brake calipers? If they are sticking, would this cause the brakes/pedal to be squishy? I don't know if that is happening but I am just asking because I notices mud up in the brake area and wondered if it jammed up the pistons.
What about bleeding the brakes? If the pads look good, do I go ahead and perform this step next?
On the rear brake shoes, does anyone know how thick new shoes are so I can compare the thickness on mine? Not sure how to tell if they are worn to the point of replacing.
Need some advice. Do I start with the front brakes since they provide most the stopping power?
How can I tell if the pistons are sticking in the front brake calipers? If they are sticking, would this cause the brakes/pedal to be squishy? I don't know if that is happening but I am just asking because I notices mud up in the brake area and wondered if it jammed up the pistons.
What about bleeding the brakes? If the pads look good, do I go ahead and perform this step next?
On the rear brake shoes, does anyone know how thick new shoes are so I can compare the thickness on mine? Not sure how to tell if they are worn to the point of replacing.
04-16-2011, 09:28 AM
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For the front brakes, check the pads for uneven wear. That's the best clue to whether the calipers are sticking or sliders are binding. Also check for unusual wear patterns in the rotor, heat spots, or "lips" on the edges. And inspect the brake lines, if the are worn enough the line will buldge under braking causing a soft pedal.
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
Last edited by N20jeep; 04-16-2011 at 09:32 AM.
04-16-2011, 09:36 AM
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For the front brakes, check the pads for uneven wear. That's the best clue to whether the calipers are sticking or sliders are binding. Also check for unusual wear patterns in the rotor, heat spots, or "lips" on the edges. And inspect the brake lines, if the are worn enough the line will buldge under braking causing a soft pedal.
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
04-16-2011, 10:27 AM
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For the front brakes, check the pads for uneven wear. That's the best clue to whether the calipers are sticking or sliders are binding. Also check for unusual wear patterns in the rotor, heat spots, or "lips" on the edges. And inspect the brake lines, if the are worn enough the line will buldge under braking causing a soft pedal.
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
For the rear, check for any signs of leaking. Which means even pulling back the dust boot on the wheel cylinder. Check for any broken or missing hardware. And the shoes to be atleast 3/16 thick and free of any stress cracks. Check for any rough wearing or lips on the drum. And ensure that the adjustment is enough that there is a small amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.
If your fluid hasn't been changed in at least a year, then flush out with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. This will extend the life of a hydraulic brake parts. And depending on how much sludge is in the system can even stiffen pedal feel
Last, if all else checks out, then the master cylinder could be internally bypassing, which will cause a soft pedal
04-16-2011, 12:10 PM
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04-26-2011, 03:34 PM
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04-26-2011, 03:38 PM
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front brake stick for two reason brake line bad or pistion sticking in caliper ,when ever you replace some thing one one side you should replace it on the other side also ,sorta like buying shoes you never buy one shoe
04-26-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
front brake stick for two reason brake line bad or pistion sticking in caliper ,when ever you replace some thing one one side you should replace it on the other side also ,sorta like buying shoes you never buy one shoe
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