BRAKE warning light on
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6-Cylinder
BRAKE warning light on
cannot figure out why but randomly today my brake light came on when i was driving.
having previously had this issue with a car of mine i thought it might just be low on brake fluid indicating a leak somewhere in the system.
however when i went to check the fluid it was full up.
pedal does feel a little more spongey than usual but still stopping fine (if not better than usual oddly enough)
now today my coolant cap blew off (common renix problem i was unaware about until it failed) as as i was driving it i heard a loud whinning noise coming from the back of my jeep. now i havent heard the noise since i got the volvo cap replacement and refilled the system but thats about the time the brake light issue started.
is it possible that when my coolant bottle exploded in the engine bay that one of the sensors got liquid damage or is the fact that the pedal is also a little spongey an indicator of something more severe?
im sure this has been asked and answered before but i couldnt find anything similar when checking the forums because most of the time people said that their mc reservoir was bone dry or at least low on fluid.
As always, thanks for reading and i look forward to any insight on this issue
having previously had this issue with a car of mine i thought it might just be low on brake fluid indicating a leak somewhere in the system.
however when i went to check the fluid it was full up.
pedal does feel a little more spongey than usual but still stopping fine (if not better than usual oddly enough)
now today my coolant cap blew off (common renix problem i was unaware about until it failed) as as i was driving it i heard a loud whinning noise coming from the back of my jeep. now i havent heard the noise since i got the volvo cap replacement and refilled the system but thats about the time the brake light issue started.
is it possible that when my coolant bottle exploded in the engine bay that one of the sensors got liquid damage or is the fact that the pedal is also a little spongey an indicator of something more severe?
im sure this has been asked and answered before but i couldnt find anything similar when checking the forums because most of the time people said that their mc reservoir was bone dry or at least low on fluid.
As always, thanks for reading and i look forward to any insight on this issue
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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IIRC, there's a connector on the proportioning valve. Follow the metal lines from your master cylinder and you'l find it.
Sure your parkbrake lever isn't triggering the light?
Sure your parkbrake lever isn't triggering the light?
#3
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edit....also i noticed that my braking power is degrading now. i dont know whats going on but im probably gonna have to park it till i can figure it out
#5
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#6
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Not necessarily.
Sometimes fluid leaks past the piston internally.
If you release brake and hit again quickly does it get better?
If you apply pressure and hold it does the pedal gradually go down?
#7
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when i depress the pedal it goes almost all the way to the floor before hitting resistance and applying the brakes. it even kind of vibrates or wiggles when you first go to depress it because theres so little resistance
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#8
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I'm betting your master cylinder is ****ting the bed.
#9
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damnit....feel like thats a pita to replace. summer has been messing my jeep up hardcore and its barely started lol
i was still saving up to fix the steering system and get new tires but at this rate ill have to replace everything in the engine bay before i get to do it. guess thats what i get for buying a jeep with 275+ k on it
i was still saving up to fix the steering system and get new tires but at this rate ill have to replace everything in the engine bay before i get to do it. guess thats what i get for buying a jeep with 275+ k on it
#10
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damnit....feel like thats a pita to replace. summer has been messing my jeep up hardcore and its barely started lol
i was still saving up to fix the steering system and get new tires but at this rate ill have to replace everything in the engine bay before i get to do it. guess thats what i get for buying a jeep with 275+ k on it
i was still saving up to fix the steering system and get new tires but at this rate ill have to replace everything in the engine bay before i get to do it. guess thats what i get for buying a jeep with 275+ k on it
#11
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#12
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As long as you don't introduce air in to the rest of the system you won't have to bleed anything but the m/c. You can bench bleed it before installing it or install it,fill it,and then bleed it at the connections.
This is may help:
http://www.soyouwanna.com/replace-ma...kee-31780.html
This is may help:
http://www.soyouwanna.com/replace-ma...kee-31780.html
Last edited by EZEARL; 06-05-2014 at 01:13 PM.
#13
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Year: 1990
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Yes. Bench bleed the master.
But, why not bleed the system afterwards just to get all new fluid into the system. Brake fluid breaks down with time and gets corrosive. Get that old **** outta there.
But, why not bleed the system afterwards just to get all new fluid into the system. Brake fluid breaks down with time and gets corrosive. Get that old **** outta there.
#14
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Year: 1989
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As long as you don't introduce air in to the rest of the system you won't have to bleed anything but the m/c. You can bench bleed it before installing it or install it,fill it,and then bleed it at the connections.
This is may help:
http://www.soyouwanna.com/replace-ma...kee-31780.html
This is may help:
http://www.soyouwanna.com/replace-ma...kee-31780.html
thanks for the advice. never done breaks before so im probably going to try and find a friend that has or have to do alot of research first. too important of a thing for me to just wing it xD cant have my breaks go out when im drivin my kiddos around
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