how do you pull codes on an older cherokee? mines an 89, the check engine light isnt on but the abs light is. would i even be able to pull anything on that?
i just bought this jeep for 500, it needed a master cylinder so the PO took it to the shop but didnt want to pay for it so the shop did something to the abs so she'd actually have a pedal. now the pedal is super hard and i gotta 2 foot it sometimes going down hill. im going to pick up a new master tomorrow but any ideas what they may have done to the abs? im gonna need to undo it once i get a new master

 

If it's indeed a renix era jeep with ABS, then they refer to the master as an actuator and they're big bucks, probably more than you paid for the entire Jeep. Your best bet is to convert it to a non abs system with a traditional master/booster out of another jeep from a jy. Not sure what the mechanic may have done, but it sounds like you lost the pneumatic air pump and are left with manual brakes, which are going to take more pedal pressure to stop. BTW these jeeps don't have a booster for power assist, so if the pump or accumulator fail, you're left with what you have: very poor manual brakes!

 

ok first question, what is renix? ive heard that mentioned a couple times around the forum.

is the pneumatic air pump located under the coolant resevoir by the firewall on the right side? if so that runs constantly. with the key on engine off it never turns off. im not quite sure if it shuts off while running but i dont think so.

second, when i was looking for a master cylinder. one of the options the parts stores showed was manual brakes/no abs. would it be possible to directly swap over that master and live with manual brakes?

 

Renix jeeps are 84-90 as far as I know

The air pump your reffering to is actually a hydraulic pump, which pressurizes the grenade looking ball next to the master cylinder. If its going all the time, you might have air in the system, but most likely, something broke. Seems like every part of the ABS system is prone to failure in one way or another.

Yes, there are other options. First off if you haven't already installed it, take the abs MC back to the store, otherwise your throwing good money at bad. You can get a standard booster and MC for your year, or get the 95-96 XJ brake system with the dual diaphram booster. I just did this a couple months ago in my 90 XJ and I can't describe how happy I am with it. The main problem in the ABS to Standard Booster conversion is cutting and flaring the brakelines, if you keep the abs hardlines...or.. I went to the JY and spent about $10 for all the hardlines for non abs XJ and the install was basicly a bolt -in and took about 4-5hrs. There are some good writeups on this that even give you parts lists. The conversion cost me about $180-$200 and that includes a reman'd dual diaphram booster, and reman'd MC.

*Keep in mind that grenade looking ball next the the MC CAN act like a grenade so make sure you depressurize the system before you start pulling parts. I think the manual says to pump the pedal 40 times with the key off*

 

cool any links to writeups on this? also on the chance there is air in it how do i go about bleeding it? just bleed the brakes?

 

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical...terUpgrade.htm

google is your friend!

This site does make the conversion seem complicated(it goes over swapping rods, etc), but just order a 96 booster with MC. You can also use the older syle brake light switch(renix era) on the newer booster by simply grinding a flat spot on the front of the booster rod. Don't take to much off! I did and had to build it up with weld. About a 1/16" is all thats needed. Your also gonna need a 1/2" to 3/8" bushing, I found one at lowes for .70 and they come about and inch long. You'll also need to make a 1/4" booster spacer to replace the OEM one on 95-96 XJ's. I used a peice of 1/4x5 Aluminum plate, but I've heard washers and rtv works too. Heard of one guy using beer coasters!!

 

that is a nice writeup but there all for upgrading to a later year. i want to keep this as simple as possible. so basicly i want to know will i have to modify the pushrod at all or brake pedal switch just switching to an 89 booster and MC?

 

No mods, a 89 booster/mc will bolt right in, BUT you will still have to replace or cut and flare you existing lines and install a proportioning valve. Keep in mind if your swapping to a booster/mc setup, the 95-96 booster/mc only takes an hour or two longer to install and costs maybe $50 more. A lot of guys say this is there best XJ mod and I agree!

 

cool thanks, the lines arent a problem i have everything i need to do the hard lines but am getting all parts from a junk yard so i might just pick up lines as well. as for the newer booster its all cost depending. i am 100% broke and really dont even have enough for this but i gotta make it happen. if i can find the newer one for dirt i'll probably do that then