Ddragggon

I have a very odd problem.... my brakes work perfectly as long as I'm going in a strait line, or only turn right. If I turn left, the pedal hits the floor when I try to brake. as soon as I straiten it out, pressure starts coming back... takes maybe 5 seconds and I have a solid pedal again.

I've searched for similar issues in the forums, and haven't had any luck. Its driving me a little mad...

So far, I've replaced:

-The master brake cylinder (because I thought it was going)
-rear brakes were done 5000 miles ago, and everything worked fine until just recently
-Front brakes were done perhaps 2000 miles ago, and again, worked perfectly fine until just recently.


I've checked

-no visible fluid leaks, and the fluid resevoir is as full as when I installed it (and yes I bench bled it first)
-Brake lines look fine, no leaks
-calipers look fine, no leaks,
-brake pads are thick, and worn evenly


The only thing I've noticed is one of my wheel bearings is shot (right hand side) and giving a lot of play to the rotor assembly. I'm picking up the part right now, and installing it tomorrow (work getting in the way of doing it right now)

Any ideas besides the brake rotor possibly shifting when I turn forcing all the fluid out of the caliper?

BooGTS

In theory, the rotor being c*cked when you turn could force the pads apart, which would need to be pumped back together before being against the rotor for the next stop.

Ok, so ADD kicked in after reading the comment about work getting in the way, I responded, and now I look up and you say prettymuch the exact same thing in your last sentence. So yeah, I think you solved the problem - or will when you fix the bearing, which is quick and easy. Hopefully you get a Timken bearing, heard horror stories about off brands.

Ddragggon

yeah, it was the wheel bearing being completely screwed that did it. installed the new one, and now I don't even know that I need to replace my trackbar. ( I thought my bad steering was from a crap trackbar, but apparently it was the bearing)

brakes function flawlessly.

I'm a bit upset, because I only replaced that bearing 3 years ago, which admittely made it easier to uninstall it than the OEM one, but still, I listened to the sucker speech of the autozone guy, and sprang for the expensive Moog one because it would last longer than the duralast one. So far, I've gotten 5 years off a duralast on the other Jeep, so there goes his little theory.

Cane

get timken hubs next time.

gpXJ

Yeah, when it comes to wheel bearings, if you're going to spend the coin, buy the Timken ones. Otherwise, any other parts store brand is gonna be about the same (including the MOOG), they will last until they fail - sometimes that is 5 years, sometimes it's less than 1.

Ddragggon

If this were a vehicle worth more than timkin bearings, I'd probably do that, but, its a rust bucket, and its only redeeming quality is no one has been able to kill it for good. it's had 3 engines, gone 95000 miles since I bought it, and its a reliable backup... The only 3 problems with it are the hole filled exhaust, needs a new TCU, and the body makes "rough" seem smooth.

tinytrax78

i have run every brand hub bearings out there even some cheap fleebay ones i have had mixed luck with all brands , one thing i can tell you for sure is that a new axle nut and hand torque of axle nut is the very best way to make them last. DO not use a impact to tighten them down at all it will cut the life in half

NM-XJ

Proper bearing preload is critical to bearing longevity. Too much or too little are both bad for bearings.

Torque to the specification in the FSM to ensure bearing life.