Brake master recommendation?
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Brake master recommendation?
So I have always been unhappy with my brakes performance, so I've replaced the brake master, the brake booster, pads/shoes, rotors/drums. I've adjusted the rears, and bled the brakes a number of times. but I just don't like how mushy they feel. I think the master I've installed might not be good. It was a rebuilt from autozone.
I know my booster is good, at least it does not have a vacuum leak, and my lines are freshly bled as of friday morning.
is there a brake master you would recommend for an 89 cherokee? I was looking at rock auto, but not sure which route I should go.
I know my booster is good, at least it does not have a vacuum leak, and my lines are freshly bled as of friday morning.
is there a brake master you would recommend for an 89 cherokee? I was looking at rock auto, but not sure which route I should go.
#3
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I don't like rebuilt master cylinders. Try a new one next time, I had good experience with Cardone Select series. (A-1 Cardone is the rebuilt series)
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
#4
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Yes, and I've also bled the whole system many times since, Once because I put on new brakes lines, another time when I installed the brake booster (it developed a leak), another time when I swapped out the rear axle, and then again this weekend because my brake fluid was black and smelled nasty.
#5
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I don't like rebuilt master cylinders. Try a new one next time, I had good experience with Cardone Select series. (A-1 Cardone is the rebuilt series)
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
#6
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I don't like rebuilt master cylinders. Try a new one next time, I had good experience with Cardone Select series. (A-1 Cardone is the rebuilt series)
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
Also, you need to confirm the distance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder is correct. Kind of hard to do without the right tool. But it can be done with a vernier caliper and a series of measurement. You need a slight gap, not too much and not too little. I think it was around 0.030 or 0.040" but I'd have to try and find that spec again.
You should replace the brake hoses, they get mushy from age and lead to poor pedal feel. Also, they are cheap.
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Upgrade to a 96' XJ booster or do a ZJ/WJ booster/master swap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/br...pgrade-194211/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/br...pgrade-194211/
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#8
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Upgrade to a 96' XJ booster or do a ZJ/WJ booster/master swap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/br...pgrade-194211/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/br...pgrade-194211/
But I know that there is a problem with my brake system, not that its weak, my brake goes to the floor, if I have to do any moderate braking at all. significant braking is scary.
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do the upgrade 99 to 04 WJ booster and master.
#13
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Thread Starter
welp, I checked the rear brakes since that takes just a few minutes to do, and it looks like the auto adjuster is not doing anything at all, and I manually adjusted them. Its an improvement for sure, but not still not where I want it. Looks like I'll be doing the upgrade to a zj, my problem is I've looked at junk yards near me, and all the boosters and master cylinders have all been yanked already... Guess I'll keep looking.
#14
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Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
welp, I checked the rear brakes since that takes just a few minutes to do, and it looks like the auto adjuster is not doing anything at all, and I manually adjusted them. Its an improvement for sure, but not still not where I want it. Looks like I'll be doing the upgrade to a zj, my problem is I've looked at junk yards near me, and all the boosters and master cylinders have all been yanked already... Guess I'll keep looking.
get the back as good as you can.i replaced tubing from master to rear axel connection,pumped juice thru and tightened it. spliced a piece up front,pumped juice thru. never touched bleeders since i always break them off. got good firm pedal!! good for 2 months.