Brake line repair
#1
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Model: Cherokee
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Brake line repair
I have a 1998 Xj build i've been doing and I recently moved to working on the rear brakes. This thing has sat for years prior to me. First a brake line busted on my driver side rear hard line. The whole line is rotted so ill be running a new one from the master cylinder back. Then today I noticed the wheel cylinder starting to leak as well. I went to take off the drum and the shoes literally fell out with minimum effort. It was so full of gunk and rust, ive never seen brakes like this before. It was crazy that it was able to be drove prior to this.
Anyway I went to go change out the wheel cylinder and I messed up. I snapped the brake line head off into the cylinder. What should I do to go about fixing this? Can I do a compression fitting if I clean up a section of line and cut it, double flare it or run all new line? That list seem to get increasingly difficult as it goes. I've never flared brake line before, but I've also never ran brake line and ill be doing that this weekend. Thanks for any input.
Anyway I went to go change out the wheel cylinder and I messed up. I snapped the brake line head off into the cylinder. What should I do to go about fixing this? Can I do a compression fitting if I clean up a section of line and cut it, double flare it or run all new line? That list seem to get increasingly difficult as it goes. I've never flared brake line before, but I've also never ran brake line and ill be doing that this weekend. Thanks for any input.
#2
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Year: 1998
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If you flare it, it needs to be double flared. The line to the rear comes off the splitter in the middle of the axle. right? Just get the wheel cylinder free of the other one and then run a new line. They're $3 for that little 18" line.
#3
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Im not sure where it runs from. I thought it ran from the driver side then across the axle. I bought 8' of line today to run back to the driver drum. I guess while I'm at it, whats a few more bends and a couple more feet of line to run to the other side.
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There should be a rubber line in there somewhere to allow for the suspension flex. From MC: Hard to rubber to splitter to hard to wheel cylinder
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#7
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Year: 1998
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As mentioned I would run new lines for all 3 of the rear brake lines. the main line from master to the rear brake hose. then from the hose junction on the axle to either side it sucks yes, but it's actually pretty easy. you could call the dealer and you may find that they have the axle lines in stock or can order them. they may even have the the main line, only problem with running a pre-fab main line is getting it in place in one piece. you are best off buying a 25ft roll of 3/16 Poly Armour (poly coated) brake line from Advanced or Napa and that will only run you about $25. If you have a torch you can probably free up, and hammer out the old brake lines from the fittings otherwise bring the fittings with you so that you can compare and buy them at the store... I've had great luck with compression fittings for brake line repair but i only use stainless steel compression fittings that are rated near 6000psi. they are not cheap at about $10 a pc. but i have yet to have one comeback leaking. and when safety is a concern i'm willing to pay the extra premium. you should be able to rent a flaring tool.and you'll want to buy a metal tubing cutter watch some youtube videos and practice a few flares before you get started. Given how straight forward the rear line is though it's easy enough to just run a whole line from the MC instead of fussing with Compression fittings.
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.co...n.htm#pressure
little side note a 25ft roll should be enough line to do this job twice. remember to cut lines a little longer than you might need just in case you mess up a flare and have to re-do it.
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.co...n.htm#pressure
little side note a 25ft roll should be enough line to do this job twice. remember to cut lines a little longer than you might need just in case you mess up a flare and have to re-do it.
Last edited by XJRed96; 09-10-2016 at 07:08 AM.
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#8
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As mentioned I would run new lines for all 3 of the rear brake lines. the main line from master to the rear brake hose. then from the hose junction on the axle to either side it sucks yes, but it's actually pretty easy. you could call the dealer and you may find that they have the axle lines in stock or can order them. they may even have the the main line, only problem with running a pre-fab main line is getting it in place in one piece. you are best off buying a 25ft roll of 3/16 Poly Armour (poly coated) brake line from Advanced or Napa and that will only run you about $25. If you have a torch you can probably free up, and hammer out the old brake lines from the fittings otherwise bring the fittings with you so that you can compare and buy them at the store... I've had great luck with compression fittings for brake line repair but i only use stainless steel compression fittings that are rated near 6000psi. they are not cheap at about $10 a pc. but i have yet to have one comeback leaking. and when safety is a concern i'm willing to pay the extra premium. you should be able to rent a flaring tool.and you'll want to buy a metal tubing cutter watch some youtube videos and practice a few flares before you get started. Given how straight forward the rear line is though it's easy enough to just run a whole line from the MC instead of fussing with Compression fittings.
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.co...n.htm#pressure
little side note a 25ft roll should be enough line to do this job twice. remember to cut lines a little longer than you might need just in case you mess up a flare and have to re-do it.
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.co...n.htm#pressure
little side note a 25ft roll should be enough line to do this job twice. remember to cut lines a little longer than you might need just in case you mess up a flare and have to re-do it.
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Year: 1998
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Flared unions are the preferred way to splice together two brake lines. I'm not surprised that they are no longer manufactured Manufactures are only required to make parts for a car for 10 years.
#11
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Ya. I was hoping I'd get lucky but oh well. I'll gain a skill by doing it myself.
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do it the right way. replace he rubber line and replace the steel lines going to each wheel.. not hard to do.. best way to do it is if you have the double flaring kit.. cut them to the proper length then put a nice double flare on the end. just don't forget to put the fitting on the line before flaring it..lol. i'm sure we all have been there..
second best way to do it is just buy a length of steel line from the parts store that is already double flared and put that on.. just get one as close as possible to the proper length..
other then that there is no inexpensive proper way of doing it.
this is your brakes we are talking about.. go it right to keep you and others out on the road safe.
.
second best way to do it is just buy a length of steel line from the parts store that is already double flared and put that on.. just get one as close as possible to the proper length..
other then that there is no inexpensive proper way of doing it.
this is your brakes we are talking about.. go it right to keep you and others out on the road safe.
.
#13
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DOT probably won't allow spliced lines with or without the use of a union. so getting it inspected with those is likely a way to fail. at least here in canada they're not allowed.
just use one piece of line. they are easier than you think to replace. i've used lengths from the parts store with fittings and flares already done and if they were a little bit too long, i just bent them up a little higher above the pumpkin and/or an extra bend to the wheel cylinder. too much line won't hurt the performance of the brake. once it's full of fluid, it all works the same.
but if you want to try your hand at flaring, practice a few times cause you likely won't get it first try.
you have one line to each front and one line to the rear drivers side frame rail, just before the wheel. then a rubber line to a brake distribution block on your rear axle tube. it's like a T junction, then a hard line to each wheel cylinder. easy peasy.
just use one piece of line. they are easier than you think to replace. i've used lengths from the parts store with fittings and flares already done and if they were a little bit too long, i just bent them up a little higher above the pumpkin and/or an extra bend to the wheel cylinder. too much line won't hurt the performance of the brake. once it's full of fluid, it all works the same.
but if you want to try your hand at flaring, practice a few times cause you likely won't get it first try.
you have one line to each front and one line to the rear drivers side frame rail, just before the wheel. then a rubber line to a brake distribution block on your rear axle tube. it's like a T junction, then a hard line to each wheel cylinder. easy peasy.
#15
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Year: 1998
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I'd just make sure the bump stops can't crush them if they come all the way to the axle. This happened to a guy I know because his leaf springs suck...