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Brake line is leaking, found the spot but idk what to do

Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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From: Carlisle, PA
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Default Brake line is leaking, found the spot but idk what to do

its my DD and i needa get the brakes working to the best of their ability. they work but i cant stop if i slam the brakes to stop, if i have to. i found the spot were the fluid is leaking out of when i hit the brake.


Brake line is leaking, found the spot but idk what to do-brake-2.jpg
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what can i do? i was thinking of just trying to do a quick fix for now by using silicon but there is probably so much pressure that it would just blow the silicon right out.

Last edited by rtralabama; Oct 17, 2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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You need to find exactly where it's leaking. Is it the steel hard line rotted?

I just had to replace this hardline from engine compartment to the rear wheel on a ZJ. You'll need tubing, cutter, flaring tool, and i'd swap that rubber line as well.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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hmmm, that's no good. Yea your right, break lines are under crazy pressure, nothing comes to mind as a "quick fix" or "temp fix" Your going to have to really fix it. Sorry I couldn't help more.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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Replace that section of brake line & flex hose, you should be good to go after you bleed it.


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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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It's high pressure, so sealing it with silicone wouldn't work. Besides, wouldn't brake fluid eat up the silicone? I know it eats up nearly everything else it comes into contact with.

Otherwise, your best bet is to go ahead and replace the lines.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OverlandXJ
You need to find exactly where it's leaking. Is it the steel hard line rotted?

I just had to replace this hardline from engine compartment to the rear wheel on a ZJ. You'll need tubing, cutter, flaring tool, and i'd swap that rubber line as well.
its leaking on the hardline. there is a bolt and thread that it looks to be leaking from. ill try and go get a better picture right now
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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I think you might be talking about this part

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004

Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.

As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.

hope that helps

-bob-
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 01:13 PM
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i just replaced the hard lines on my GFs 96 and we just used tubing and compression fittings
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Irongrave
i just replaced the hard lines on my GFs 96 and we just used tubing and compression fittings
I thought about using compression when I did mine, but my mechanic and so it seems a lot of people here don't recommend them. A number of the posts I read said that if the vehicle went through any kind of DMV inspection, it would fail.

But if it worked for you. that's what counts.

-bob-
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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My take on it is: if it works on 200psi water lines and for propane it will work on brake lines, I've been in the building trades my whole life so I've done a lot of work with comparison fittings. My gf's passed CT inspection no issues with compensation fittings.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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Well that's especially cool for me cause I'm in CT too. Thanks for the info.

-bob-
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bobvalli
I think you might be talking about this part

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004

Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.

As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.

hope that helps

-bob-


that look like part of the line to me, but idk if thats were the leak is. it looks like its leaking on the hard line. but ill go double check just make sure.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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the line looks awful tight extened brake line if its the rubber leaking
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Compression fitting are not designed for the high pressure of the brake system. Brake pressures can go much higher than 200 psi. My brake pressure gauge goes to 2000psi and on a hard stop it reach that high.I have seen people use them with no issues but I wouldn't take a chance. It is an easy repair. Rent a flaring kit from the parts store and get the some 3/16" brake line.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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You can either fix it, or fix it right.

And yes, that's a 3/16th fitting on the hardline. Spray it down with PB Blaster, or heat it with a torch if you have one available, then work that fitting loose.

You can buy segments of brake line at your local auto parts store, just make sure to get US thread 3/16th. Now you have 2 options here. You can either run an entire new line, which is recommended, but rather hard to do without a proper lift to raise the Jeep. So option 2 - follow that line towards the front of the Jeep, and find a place on the brake line that looks rust free. When you pickup new brake line, be sure to get an extra 3/16 male end and a 3/16 to 3/16 connection.

You can buy the tube flairing kit from Harbor Freight for a few bucks, and I'm almost positive Advance Auto Parts rents them. Cut the brake line in a healthy area thats easy to work in. Then flair the tube, tighten your new fittings, run the tube to that flex hose (provided its in good shape), reinstall, tighten, bleed, test drive, smile, drink beer, sit and enjoy Sunday afternoon football.

Biggest thing, don't be scared by brake lines. It's a little uneasy at first knowing their preasure and importance, but repairing them is rather easy.

Good luck!

Last edited by Bustedknuckle; Oct 17, 2010 at 03:05 PM.
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