Brake line is leaking, found the spot but idk what to do
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Brake line is leaking, found the spot but idk what to do
its my DD and i needa get the brakes working to the best of their ability. they work but i cant stop if i slam the brakes to stop, if i have to. i found the spot were the fluid is leaking out of when i hit the brake.
what can i do? i was thinking of just trying to do a quick fix for now by using silicon but there is probably so much pressure that it would just blow the silicon right out.
what can i do? i was thinking of just trying to do a quick fix for now by using silicon but there is probably so much pressure that it would just blow the silicon right out.
Last edited by rtralabama; 10-17-2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Year: 94
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Engine: 4.0L
You need to find exactly where it's leaking. Is it the steel hard line rotted?
I just had to replace this hardline from engine compartment to the rear wheel on a ZJ. You'll need tubing, cutter, flaring tool, and i'd swap that rubber line as well.
I just had to replace this hardline from engine compartment to the rear wheel on a ZJ. You'll need tubing, cutter, flaring tool, and i'd swap that rubber line as well.
#3
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
hmmm, that's no good. Yea your right, break lines are under crazy pressure, nothing comes to mind as a "quick fix" or "temp fix" Your going to have to really fix it. Sorry I couldn't help more.
#5
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It's high pressure, so sealing it with silicone wouldn't work. Besides, wouldn't brake fluid eat up the silicone? I know it eats up nearly everything else it comes into contact with.
Otherwise, your best bet is to go ahead and replace the lines.
Otherwise, your best bet is to go ahead and replace the lines.
#6
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Year: 2000
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its leaking on the hardline. there is a bolt and thread that it looks to be leaking from. ill try and go get a better picture right now
#7
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I think you might be talking about this part
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004
Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.
As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.
hope that helps
-bob-
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004
Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.
As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.
hope that helps
-bob-
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#9
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Year: 98
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But if it worked for you. that's what counts.
-bob-
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My take on it is: if it works on 200psi water lines and for propane it will work on brake lines, I've been in the building trades my whole life so I've done a lot of work with comparison fittings. My gf's passed CT inspection no issues with compensation fittings.
#12
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
I think you might be talking about this part
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004
Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.
As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.
hope that helps
-bob-
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038004
Only problem is getting the old fittings loose. I believe the hard line is 3/16ths if you need to get new nipples and you'd also need a double flaring tool. Compression doesn't look like it will help you and they're not really recommended anyway.
As for the axle end, it's the vent tube bolt that holds the block on to the axle tube.
hope that helps
-bob-
that look like part of the line to me, but idk if thats were the leak is. it looks like its leaking on the hard line. but ill go double check just make sure.
#14
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Year: 1999
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Compression fitting are not designed for the high pressure of the brake system. Brake pressures can go much higher than 200 psi. My brake pressure gauge goes to 2000psi and on a hard stop it reach that high.I have seen people use them with no issues but I wouldn't take a chance. It is an easy repair. Rent a flaring kit from the parts store and get the some 3/16" brake line.
#15
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output OBDII
You can either fix it, or fix it right.
And yes, that's a 3/16th fitting on the hardline. Spray it down with PB Blaster, or heat it with a torch if you have one available, then work that fitting loose.
You can buy segments of brake line at your local auto parts store, just make sure to get US thread 3/16th. Now you have 2 options here. You can either run an entire new line, which is recommended, but rather hard to do without a proper lift to raise the Jeep. So option 2 - follow that line towards the front of the Jeep, and find a place on the brake line that looks rust free. When you pickup new brake line, be sure to get an extra 3/16 male end and a 3/16 to 3/16 connection.
You can buy the tube flairing kit from Harbor Freight for a few bucks, and I'm almost positive Advance Auto Parts rents them. Cut the brake line in a healthy area thats easy to work in. Then flair the tube, tighten your new fittings, run the tube to that flex hose (provided its in good shape), reinstall, tighten, bleed, test drive, smile, drink beer, sit and enjoy Sunday afternoon football.
Biggest thing, don't be scared by brake lines. It's a little uneasy at first knowing their preasure and importance, but repairing them is rather easy.
Good luck!
And yes, that's a 3/16th fitting on the hardline. Spray it down with PB Blaster, or heat it with a torch if you have one available, then work that fitting loose.
You can buy segments of brake line at your local auto parts store, just make sure to get US thread 3/16th. Now you have 2 options here. You can either run an entire new line, which is recommended, but rather hard to do without a proper lift to raise the Jeep. So option 2 - follow that line towards the front of the Jeep, and find a place on the brake line that looks rust free. When you pickup new brake line, be sure to get an extra 3/16 male end and a 3/16 to 3/16 connection.
You can buy the tube flairing kit from Harbor Freight for a few bucks, and I'm almost positive Advance Auto Parts rents them. Cut the brake line in a healthy area thats easy to work in. Then flair the tube, tighten your new fittings, run the tube to that flex hose (provided its in good shape), reinstall, tighten, bleed, test drive, smile, drink beer, sit and enjoy Sunday afternoon football.
Biggest thing, don't be scared by brake lines. It's a little uneasy at first knowing their preasure and importance, but repairing them is rather easy.
Good luck!
Last edited by Bustedknuckle; 10-17-2010 at 03:05 PM.