AFARR

When I got the jeep (95, Sport), it had spongy brakes.

When under it looking around, the hard line that runs along the frame rail to the rear splitter is corroded (about 2' from where it starts to bend). Brake fluid along the area of the corrosion.

So...it needs replaced.

I believe (in doing searches here) it's 3/16".

I have a Harbor Freight nearby (best cheap Chinese tools money can buy!) to get a flare kit.

I'd rather get a factory line...but that's looking cost prohibitive (I'll still call around though to see if I can get it cheap enough).

So, I think I'm going to do it myself. Did it on a Ford Explorer in the past (yes, I know bending, etc is a pain in the ***!!).

However, I'd prefer to know what fittings for each end (so as the old comes off, I can feed the new along the same course)...can anyone tell me what the proper fittings are (or direct me to a link)...II assume it's from the proportioning valve to the rear split...

Thanks!

AFARR

mcguyver_xj

lets see american vehicle from an american company so its american threads and if you take a section to either autozone or advanced auto or even napa or carquest they will give you the same size line in as long as you need it pre-flared...

your train of thought is making it much harder then it has to be and rent a bender from autozone or advanced makes bending it so easy...

freegdr

they sell brake line at napa bennet in lengths with fittins on it all ready take the old line in and get one long enough to bend and replace

AFARR

I was hoping to have it in hand so I can put the new line in as the old line comes out...it was a pain figuring out the line on the Exploder when it had the same problem...would have been much easier for me to match bend for bend.

I had seen the stuff at Napa (got the radiator from them yesterday), and will probably go there for the line..

AFARR

mcguyver_xj

fords are pains in the a$$ cause ford likes to use two different flares/ fittings on both ends other companies dont do that

2Evil4U

IIRC, the fitting at the rear (into the splitter) is a 3/8-24 thread double flare.

The fitting at the proportioning valve on my 97 was much larger thread, so I ended up reusing it on the new line.

Here's my writeup for the total rear brake replacement on an 8.25.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...-8-25-a-58947/

NH_Jeep_XJ

Firstly I wanted to show my THANKS to:

2Evil4U

For his excellent write up on the rear Brake Job ! Much better than any Haynes OR Service manual. Thanks again !



My brake line is corroded and leaking near the rear brake hose junction as well.

Due to my lack of experience with flaring lines and brake lines in general. I bought a prebent line from the stealership which wasn't too bad @$38. considering it's already flared, has the connectors AND is prebent.

I know you can buy 20 feet of line for much less but I haven't any flaring tools or experience when it comes to brake lines and I didn't wanna risk learning about brake lines and fittings for $40. Especially if other's lives are relying on my XJ being able to stop.

I've got the new line (X) currently resting on the frame rail supported by the E Brake bracket until I can figure out the best way to get the new line past the existing ones and into the inboard most clip.

(X) XXX ||<----- Frame Rail from front


Any tips on routing the lines though inboard ? Like Undoing certain/all clips or something before others ?

Do you favor starting at one end of the vehicle over the other for example ?

Any tips would be appreciated.

2Evil4U

$38 for the entire line from the proportioning valve to the splitter is a decent price.

I used a spool of tubing and fished it through from the front to the back, threading it through the connectors as I went.

I'd say your best bet will be to run it from front to back starting by sticking it down by the proportioning valve and dragging it through from there. You'll end up bending it a bit to do it, but as long as you go easy on it and don't kink it you should be fine.

Bigclubs

Just had the same line replace at the Sears I work part time, did not have any flaring tools and easier on a lift. Replaced the line from the front valve near the side of the engine back to the rear valve. Cost @$100, would have been much cheaper if the assistant manager wasen't working that night. He didn't cut me much of a break. The coiled line is much easier to work with and easy to bend as long as your not trying to make sharp bends. Make the bends a bit larger than the original and you should be able to run it along the frame and clip it into the plastic holders. My line popped out of the clips a week later and it sounded like the hell banging against the undercarriage. Thought I broke something on the suspension. Will have to tie wrap the line to the clips so it doesn't happen again.