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Brake help.

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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #16  
KJamesJR's Avatar
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Basically I need to have the pedal almost to the floor before the XJ stops.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
The brakes will grab about 1/4 of the travel length in the brake pedal. They're just REALLY spongy. Like there's not enough pressure behind the pedal.

I guess that's a good way of putting it. Not enough pressure is being delivered to the brakes. Thus, the pedal is spongy.
Have rears ever been adjusted ? this regulates pedal height. And any time a brakeing system is opened up all wheels should be bled unless master has separate chambers for front and rear systems.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #18  
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Replace brake lines. The rubber ones. If they are old they will more with time. Jmo
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Have rears ever been adjusted ? this regulates pedal height. And any time a brakeing system is opened up all wheels should be bled unless master has separate chambers for front and rear systems.
Not sure if the rears have been adjusted. I have yet to touch them. But I intend to bleed them all this weekend.


My brake lines are all good. I inspected the thoroughly before removing the calipers.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 11:30 PM
  #20  
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Are you sure that you are bleeding them correctly? Pump up the pedal until it is tight, and then release the bleeder screw?
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 02:26 AM
  #21  
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Small Gatorade and some clear hose works great OP, just be sure and drink the Gatorade first, for hydration you know.


Brake help.-image-923246357.jpg
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
Are you sure that you are bleeding them correctly? Pump up the pedal until it is tight, and then release the bleeder screw?
Yes, we did this. I was the one pumping the break. Again, I wasn't the person doing the bleeding. I'll try it again as the bleeder. And I'll be doing the rear drums this time as well.

On a side note, I've been doing some research... I don't know if this technique actually works, but I've read; you can slam on the breaks going roughly 10mph and this will "reset" your pedal? Can anyone verify this?
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:32 AM
  #23  
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I think that is referring to the auto adjustment of the rear drum brakes. A full stop forward and backward will put the final adjustment on drum brakes. Haven't ever heard of it reseting the pedal. It might feel like it does though.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
Yes, we did this. I was the one pumping the break. Again, I wasn't the person doing the bleeding. I'll try it again as the bleeder. And I'll be doing the rear drums this time as well.

On a side note, I've been doing some research... I don't know if this technique actually works, but I've read; you can slam on the breaks going roughly 10mph and this will "reset" your pedal? Can anyone verify this?
Work on rears bleed all 4 post results .
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 12:51 AM
  #25  
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Update:

The pedal is stiff once again.

As I was tooling around town this past weekend, the pedal became more and more stiff. I asked my buddy that helped me do the brakes about it. He said something about having to "bed" them, and that was most likely the issue. However it's been replaced with something else... Go figure. I'm getting a jerk/pulse in my steering wheel now when I turn in either direction. Are u-joints hard to replace? From what information I've gathered, it's most likely u-joint related. I'm not getting any popping or grinding yet however.
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #26  
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Or I could be stuck in 4wd. It's the same kind of binding you'd get driving on pavement with 4H engaged.
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