Brake fluid slowly coming out
Just installed new rear shoes and wheel Cylinders and am having trouble bleeding the brakes. I’ve done it several times before but for some reason it’s not going right. Bleeding from LR first, I’ll have my partner pump three times and hold, then I’ll open and close the bleeder, leaving it open for about 2 or 3 seconds. Problem is that hardly any fluid is coming out, so I can’t tell when the air bubbles stop. Gone through almost a whole bottle of fluid. The brakes feel extremely firm when the car is off, but when the car is on, the brakes will hit the floor and take a while to stop the car.
i have not run the master cylinder dry. What would cause the flow to be so slow? As far as I can tell, none of the lines are damaged or kinked
i have not run the master cylinder dry. What would cause the flow to be so slow? As far as I can tell, none of the lines are damaged or kinked
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 807
Likes: 124
From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
remove line and see if any comes out if plenty comes out most likely then bad bleeder valve. I have seen before where a old neglected system got new cylinders and during bleeding process rust broke loose and caused piston to lock down so guess is a chance you got blockage if it was a bad shape.
CF Veteran


Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 412
From: San Mateo, CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix, stock.
Do the right rear first, NOT left rear. always start at furtherst wheel from the master and work you way closer, right rear, then left rear, then right front then left front.
remove bleeder screw nd see if flow improves out of the system, if not, then remove hose from cylinder and check if hose flows freely of not. bleeder screws can get clogged, hoses can become collapsed internally.
remove bleeder screw nd see if flow improves out of the system, if not, then remove hose from cylinder and check if hose flows freely of not. bleeder screws can get clogged, hoses can become collapsed internally.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
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From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No. Wrong process. Open the bleeder, one steady push to floor and HOLD, then close the bleeder. Release brake pedal. Repeat as needed.
Or get some speed bleeder valves. Much easier.
Russell speed bleeders. There are different sizes, and IIRC, yours takes different front and back.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,543
Likes: 351
From: District of Columbia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No. Wrong process. Open the bleeder, one steady push to floor and HOLD, then close the bleeder. Release brake pedal. Repeat as needed.
Or get some speed bleeder valves. Much easier.
Russell speed bleeders. There are different sizes, and IIRC, yours takes different front and back.
Or get some speed bleeder valves. Much easier.
Russell speed bleeders. There are different sizes, and IIRC, yours takes different front and back.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 278
From: Santa Clarita California
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Or you can open the bleeder and hold your finger over the opening and have some one pump the peddle when you start to get a good amount of fluid then you can bleed it one pump at a time .
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Agreed. I'd just add on an old master cylinder, I'd probably not bottom out the pedal, as making the MC seals travel the full distance in the bore (farther than they usually do) might tear them up. Back before I used to use speed bleeders and then a power bleeder, I'd put a small block of wood under the brake pedal to keep it from going all the way to the floor. Overkill? I don't know, perhaps.
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