gintaras

Man I hate when this happens, trying to install my 3" series II and first I had a shock bolt that was seized in the shock bushing sleeve, that's not too bad because you can unbolt the mount from the axle and cut it off, but now I also have a control arm bolt that is seized in the bushing and I don't know how I am going to get it out unless I just cut this one too... any tips?

Iant333

What I usually do is buy a new bushing then burn the old one out with a torch.

gintaras

The only thing that'll get me is a burned out bushing but the sleeve will still be seized around the bolt and I'm back to square one.. I guess I will need to cut this off, it wont be fun doing it under the jeep, at least I could but the shock in a vice.

gintaras

any tips on cutting these control arm bolts off? I was thinking of going at the center of the head of the bolt with a drill bit that is just a little bigger than the bolt but smaller than the hole in the CA, that way they head should just pop right off as long as the metal is not too hard and I can bore through it starting with a smaller bit and working up to a larger size... And I was going to use a cut off wheel on the other side. Without access to an acetelyne torch, any other ideas?

Basically the bolt is seized insode the bushing sleeve and won't be able to push it through, and if I put a wrench on it and turn, the entire bushing turns with it.

t1320t

Hit it with PB Blaster... give it time to soak. I don't have an acetylene torch either so map gas it what I use to heat things up. I installed my 3" kit this weekend & the map gas saved my butt when removing the crossmember studs.

1990cherokee

I know this migght not help but they have this stuff at auto stores that uses freeze tech. to losen seized bolts, i have used it and it works just cant member the name, it's like freese off or something like that..... maybe someone can help me out here...

Donnie_K

You'll be cutting that lower control arm bolt with an angle grinder. Which is fine since your Series II came with new lower control arms. Just wait, it gets more fun when you start on those leaf spring bolts since the nut is welded inside the unibody. As long as you don't break that weld you can back the bolt all the way out, then cut it so you don't have to go through the floorboard. You'll be seeing your local jeep dealership for new bolts and nuts. I haven't been able to find them much of anywhere else. I had to run a tap through the nuts for the front leaf spring bolts too. That was a very hard tap to find.

5-90

This is why I paint the shanks of the screws with never-seez. Always assume the next poor bastid to work on the job is going to be you, and you'll have a Swiss Army Knife and a hammer...

Do your work accordingly.