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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
As the title states, I've broken the head off a bolt while changing out the bushings on my sway bar.
I'm losing my mind over this thing. I've tried everything I can think of. Drilled into it, broke countless drill bits, broke an easy out inside the pilot hole, Penetrating oil, heating with a torch, I just cannot get a drill bit to cut through the hardened steel so I can get into this thing. Any suggestions?
Dremel-cut a deep "+" into the head and then hammer a hex-driven phillips bit into it. Heat the surrounding metal while you try to reverse it. Or, if you can drive it forward, just let it fall into the frame.
Dremel-cut a deep "+" into the head and then hammer a hex-driven phillips bit into it. Heat the surrounding metal while you try to reverse it. Or, if you can drive it forward, just let it fall into the frame.
There isn't a head, that's my issue. I also do not have a dremmel.
A "bolt extractor" set is the simplest thing you can try next, however my success rate with them is probably a hair under 60%. A set like this one (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-...117x00001xlpla) works like a drill bit but in reverse, apply force directly into the bolt and allow the extractor to bite into the bolt and eventually it should have enough grip on the bolt to start backing it out, if the welded nut doesn't give out first.
I had the same problem and after many attempts of different things I just had my buddy weld the end of the bracket to the frame. Yes it might not be the correct way but I figured this would be the last time the bushing would need to be changed out so I would be ok. 6 months later all is still good.
A "bolt extractor" set is the simplest thing you can try next, however my success rate with them is probably a hair under 60%. A set like this one (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-...117x00001xlpla) works like a drill bit but in reverse, apply force directly into the bolt and allow the extractor to bite into the bolt and eventually it should have enough grip on the bolt to start backing it out, if the welded nut doesn't give out first.
I bought a set of extractors. Only problem is, to use them you have to drill a hole into the broke off portion of bolt for the extractor to go into and bite. That's where my issue is currently. I had an extractor inside my first pilot hole, and then the extractor broke off in the hole.
I had the same problem and after many attempts of different things I just had my buddy weld the end of the bracket to the frame. Yes it might not be the correct way but I figured this would be the last time the bushing would need to be changed out so I would be ok. 6 months later all is still good.
May be a possible option for me after an attempt to fully drill this bolt out and retap. I hate that I can't access it from the other side if the frame.
Have you tried welding a nut onto the broken portion? Get a nut with a hole just slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt, center it on there, weld in place, and remove while it's still hot...works well, and worth a shot, just a suggestion.
I had the same problem and after many attempts of different things I just had my buddy weld the end of the bracket to the frame. Yes it might not be the correct way but I figured this would be the last time the bushing would need to be changed out so I would be ok. 6 months later all is still good.
This is what I was going to suggest. All the bolts broke in the frame for my rear bump stops so I just welded the new ones on. Same deal with these brackets, just don't weld them on too good or you'll never get them back off. Assuming you need to change the bushings ever again.
That's where the road to hell starts, that hardened steel doesn't drill out.
So true. What was a PITA becomes a major issue.
OP, your best bet is to find a good mechanic or machine shop that does this at a reasonable price (shouldn't be too much since the area is readily accessible). They should be able to fix it no problem. It may take you calling around / driving to a few places until you find a guy with the skill to do it.
That's what I did after 2 days of messing with a broken bolt / extractor from the cross member. Took it to a 4 X 4 guy and he had no problem doing it. $100. Well worth it. By the time you are done buying the tools, diamond drill bits, diamond tip grinders, it will be more expensive than paying someone else to do it.
OP, your best bet is to find a good mechanic or machine shop that does this at a reasonable price (shouldn't be too much since the area is readily accessible). They should be able to fix it no problem. It may take you calling around / driving to a few places until you find a guy with the skill to do it.
That's what I did after 2 days of messing with a broken bolt / extractor from the cross member. Took it to a 4 X 4 guy and he had no problem doing it. $100. Well worth it. By the time you are done buying the tools, diamond drill bits, diamond tip grinders, it will be more expensive than paying someone else to do it.
I've already discovered that I've spent too much in drill bits etc than I should have. I replaced my sway bar links, both sway bar body bushings, bolted the left side up like normal, bolted the right side up with the only bolt available. I can drive it like this until I find a mechanic/body shop to remedy this for me.
02-24-2016, 05:11 PM
Bolt head broke, can't get it out.
