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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I have 2 issues I could use a little help with.
2000 XJ 4.0 auto
Blower motors works when it wants to which isnt very often. Blower, resistor and control panel all replaced with known working ones. Still doing the same thing. Have wiggled wires and still does nothing. Fuses are all good as well
Problem 2 is...I had a leaking trans pan so I dropped it, had to take dip stick with it since it was seized together, installed new filter reassembled and filled with fresh fluid now Im getting P0740 Torque Converter Circuit code. Ive cleared it and it comes back on immediately.
Anyone have any dealings with these 2 issues? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
On the 2000 the XJ there is a relay which takes it's main feed from Fuse 6 - 40A in the PDC and it's trigger feed is powred by fuse 25 -15A in the fuse board.
I'd be checking those fuses and the relay that they power.
Another thing you can do to would be to turn the ignition on and see what voltage is found at the fan motor. If voltage is there, the fault should be towards the control switches, if no voltage found it'll be a supply issue.
I should be able to post a wiring diagram later on or feel free to beat me to it anyone.
If it returns are there any other codes and is this PO740 code active? If no other codes are present check transmission electrical connections, if electrical is fine, check and replace the L/R SOLENOID, TORQUE CONVERTER AND/OR INTERNAL TRANSMISSION
There are 3 different types of codes Active, Pending and Stored."
You can find the wiring diagram for the blower motor circuit on page 831 and relay diagnosis on page 2036. Here's the link: http://malcolm.iri5.net/FSM/2000%20XJ%20FSM.pdf - Thanks to Cruisers website for the link.
On the 2000 the XJ there is a relay which takes it's main feed from Fuse 6 - 40A in the PDC and it's trigger feed is powred by fuse 25 -15A in the fuse board.
I'd be checking those fuses and the relay that they power.
Another thing you can do to would be to turn the ignition on and see what voltage is found at the fan motor. If voltage is there, the fault should be towards the control switches, if no voltage found it'll be a supply issue.
I should be able to post a wiring diagram later on or feel free to beat me to it anyone.
I will check the blower motor tonight and see if I have voltage at the connector for the blower itself. Im assuming this is key on, switch on and check with a volt meter.
Sorry, I am horrible with electrical
You can find the wiring diagram for the blower motor circuit on page 831 and relay diagnosis on page 2036. Here's the link: http://malcolm.iri5.net/FSM/2000%20XJ%20FSM.pdf - Thanks to Cruisers website for the link.
If it returns are there any other codes and is this PO740 code active? If no other codes are present check transmission electrical connections, if electrical is fine, check and replace the L/R SOLENOID, TORQUE CONVERTER AND/OR INTERNAL TRANSMISSION
There are 3 different types of codes Active, Pending and Stored."
I find it odd that this code never popped up til I serviced the trans. Im thinking I may have snagged a wire when the pan was off.
I cleared the code 3 times and it comes back immediately
I will check the blower motor tonight and see if I have voltage at the connector for the blower itself. Im assuming this is key on, switch on and check with a volt meter.
Sorry, I am horrible with electrical
Key on, leave the switch off at first when checking voltage at the motor then try again with the switch on. If there is voltage when the switch was off, if the motor is not spinning there should be the same voltage with the switch on. This would say the fault is earth related past the live feed and motor.
I don't know if your's will be the same being a facelift model but when I had gearbox issues, I was able to find my fault via the connector in the engine bay. By using a multimeter on resistance (Ohm) setting, I probed the 3 circled pins with one lead and the other on an earth point and you should see I think between 11-15 ohms, I may have the figures slightly wrong. I'm sure solenoid #3, red circled E is the lockup solenoid and if the wire had fallen off or was pinched causing fault, you would see a reading of 0 Ohms (or a tad higher).
In my case Solenoid #2 was dead so I had an open loop showing as OL when using this method.