My 30a fuse for blower motor keeps blowing. I have replaced the resistor and it still kills the fuse. I unhook the blower motor and it still blows. My guess is I have a short somewhere under the dash but before I start pulling everything apart maybe someone here has a suggestion?

I had one of hoses connecting to the airbox disconnected when the fuse first blew but I'm not sure if that is just a coincidence.

Hopefully someone may beable to help me narrow down this m
Problem. Thank you.

 

Fan selector switch. Buy the pigtail for it too, trust me.

 

Yeah it was the switch, the pigtail was melted but also my blower is shot so I'll be replacing that.

I have cut off the pig tail and am considering buying the individual connectors and just putting them on the right terminals.

 

@Scottjames84, Hey can you show your repair if you managed to do it. i have the same problem and im curious of what you end up doing.

 

the "40" amp fuse in the diagram goes first to the blower relay , then to the motor that gets pulled to ground thru the resistors/sw. so it cant be the resistors. motor, could be bad.
pull the relay see if fuse blows. if not it looks like motor.OR wiring!!

trouble like this you gotta be looking at the wire diagram.

i reread your original post,not motor or res. pull relay.must be short to ground at or after relay, the dg wire to the motor
if you pull relay and fuse you can check ohms on the dg wire, no volts there with fuse out.

 

Right church, wrong pew. He found the problem.


Besides, you are talking about a '97+ HVAC system. There is no relay in the early HVAC systems.

 

yeah i didnt see what he had and i wouldnt have known better anyway. i downloaded a fsm and dont know where it came from!!
it helps me and i thought it might be useful. i still wonder about the switch, often the conn melt. hummers had a recall on the harness , no bad sw or resistors to speak of.

hey ccken what about my o2 #2 that was bad till i plugged loose conn in, worked 2 days then reads bad again?, po138 i think.