After posting this I went out and took one more look, and in comparison to the relay, the wires going into the relay are in fact back wards in respect to 87 and 30. Are the relay wires plug and play in the relay holder? How could this happen?

 

There's nothing wrong with what you see. I made a mistake on my schematic, which I've revised (see revised schematic) to show a new relay pinout and relay pin numbers.

I've also included a pinout drawing form the FSM.

A couple things: Make sure you have a 40 Amp relay, and make sure you check the battery voltage at the battery each time you do voltage checks.

 

See revised schematic above.

Read from pin cav 4 to dash structure for a meter ground.

When reading from 4 to 1 I think you are reading through the blower motor and through the entire control circuit. I think the blower measures around 150-160 Ohms when new.

Edit: If you do read any voltage between pin cavs 1 and 4 of on the relay connector when the connector(s) on the blower motor are disconnected, it means there's a short to ground in that Dark Green wire from pin cav 1 of the relay connector to pin cav A of the blower.

 

I will perform the requested tests tomorrow. I tested the power at 87 to ground and I'd say the 11 volt reading may be due to the lack of a good ground in said area.

But, I reinstalled everything in order to get the jeep inspected, and the blower fan turned on mid trip. It had a loud blowing sound coming from the blower fan which may be due to either the plugs on it being backwards or the bottom bolt not grabbing completely. But it turned on. I didn't want to leave it running when it obviously sounded like something wasn't perfect, so I kept it off the rest of the ride.

 

Read this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...-pics-1148719/

You may have the thermal fuse in your resistor block blown. The resistor block needs airflow accross it for cooling, and with the fan selected on but the blower not running to pass air over the resistor block it may have gotten it hot enough to blow the fuse (128*C (262.4*F).

 

The schematic is maybe on purpose not complete.
Hereunder is what is the more realistic schematic of the resistor block.




Regards,
Rob Oudendijk