bleeding clutch issues
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter H.O.
bleeding clutch issues
Tried a search, didn't really have helpful information. So I just changed master cylinder for clutch, afterwords started the bleeding process. I have a 93 4 liter, and it looks like slave cylinder is inside bell housing so according to everything I read it didn't need removed, bled for a while, clutch pedal got nice and springy and it is a steady stream of fluid coming out, but clutch engages/disengages like right off the floor, like 1/64" of an inch, does it just need bled more, any suggestions?
#2
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Ahh.... yeah it can be a pain. I couldnt even use the bleeder valve on mine. You can sometimes bleed it through the fluid reservoir mine worked that way anyway. I have heard that since there is so little movement it takes lots and lots of really rapid pumps to get all the air out. pump it really fast 20-30 times then hold it to the floor.
You canalso try loosening the bolts for the master cyl and angle it up a bit while someone else pumps the clutch. You should be able to see bubbles in the fluid.
Just tossin out what worked for me and what I have heard here and there.
You canalso try loosening the bolts for the master cyl and angle it up a bit while someone else pumps the clutch. You should be able to see bubbles in the fluid.
Just tossin out what worked for me and what I have heard here and there.
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Year: 1993
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So I did all that, and no luck. Is there some way the internal slave cylinder could have come loose. The line going into bell housing and line coming out for bleeding have a lot of play in them, like the lines move forwards and backwards over an inch
Also noticed this and it seemed weird. When I would crack bleeder valve loose and then re-tighten, clutch pedal would stay on the floor, but if you pull it up by hand to its original position the pedal seems fine and has pressure on it and clutch returns to the upward position on its own
Also noticed this and it seemed weird. When I would crack bleeder valve loose and then re-tighten, clutch pedal would stay on the floor, but if you pull it up by hand to its original position the pedal seems fine and has pressure on it and clutch returns to the upward position on its own
Last edited by Dsandine; 07-30-2010 at 08:05 PM.
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Not sure on that one. I know on mine when I get under there I can slide the steel hose in and out. I think it is the one with the bleeder valve on it but I can't quite remember. Been a while since ive messed with it. There could be a small leak somewhere in one of the lines. I know mine has a slow leak. I have to add fluid every couple weeks.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with some other ideas.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with some other ideas.
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 Liter H.O.
So i tried every possible technique of bleeding I could find on the internet and no joy. Took it to a shop and they said they would install a new master cylinder and bleed it for $50 to $75, and I provided the new master cylinder. Well the cylinder took like 5 minutes to install but they have been trying to bleed it for hours with no luck. The think slave cylinder might be bad, but that seems weird as clutch worked great until plastic tab on master cylinder broke.
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 Liter H.O.
so shop says my slave cylinder is bad. Since I have to replace slave cylinder and its internal, I'm going to replace clutch and flywheel as well, can anyone recommend what all needs to be replaced, I am guessing, clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder (if I can find internal one) pilot bushing, throw out beariing, any thing else? I also planned on putting centerforce duel fricxtion clutch on as I am going to be towing with this, and I saw some steel flywheels on quadratec, does anyone know of an aluminum flywheel for the ax15 or recommend a certain clutch setup for pulling around 3500 pounds?
Thanks in Advance,
dave
Thanks in Advance,
dave
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