So i already know the answer but i am hoping someone can enlighten me to a way that i won't have to bleed my entire brake system when i install my new master cylinder (bench bleed). Anyone?? Thanks

 

Yeah, you know the answer.

Bench bleed it.

 

There is no way to avoid bleeding the system if you want the brakes to work. Also you do need to at least you should bench bleed the new master too. But that will only get the air out of the master and not the rest of the system.

 

It's good practice to flush out the system anyway. A small amount of air there will find a way out. Since it's a matter of life and death, and you might save yourself a headache down the road by flushing it, I say bleed it.

 

Yes.

Bench bleed master cylinder.

Vacuum bleed system after installation.

I've done plenty of master cylinders - there's no way whatever around bleeding the system. Pressure bleed, vacuum bleed, or gravity bleed - it's got to be done, if you want to be able to stop!

 

It's literally been decades since I've used one, but Napa sells a nifty little one-way valve for one-person bleeding. > http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...089_0424508424

 

I have replaced master cylinders without bleeding the whole system. Is it the technically correct way? No, but it have had good results. Once I bench bleed the master I bolt it on and hook the lines up. Then I have somebody step on the brakes while I crack the lines loose. I do it a few times until I get a good pedal and then hose down the brake fluid that squirted all over. If the pedal does not feel as good as I think it should I will then bleed the whole system and check the rear brake adjustment. It is recommended that the brake fluid is flushed every couple of years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs the moisture from the atmosphere. Moisture in the brake fluid will cause all kinds of issues, corrosion, lowers the boiling point of the fluid, and makes the brake fluid conductive. Conductive brake fluid can cause problems with the ABS module...never seen it happen though.

 

is it at all possible to bleed it at the combo valve? or is that also a lost cause... just trying to weight my options. Thanks for the feedback

 

Not worth the headache, just bleed the whole system.

 

Get that old frickin fluid outta there!!

 

Fluid is around 1 year old had all rotors drums and pads done over. But f*** it. I'm gonna just make a weekend project out of it.

 

Why make a weekend project out of a 20 minute job?

 

Funny, my 20 minute jobs turn into weekend in projects because i always find somthing else wrong lol

 

I forgot to factor that in to my response... sorry..LOL.

 

Its like "changed my air fitler" turns into another "pulled my head this weekend" thread lol